Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by Eazy123 » 30 Mar 2017 9:19
I bought a group of four of these shackled together with no key. Pretty worn - I had to use WD-40 to loosen the plugs on two of them. Doing a search here brings up only one mention of them, and elsewhere on the internet info is scarce. Anyone have experience with these? Are these rebrands? Do they tend to have security pins?  Another general padlock question - I notice some of these locks will turn just a bit and spring back before picking. Do you lift and then turn, or turn and then start lifting with these?
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by Ralph_Goodman » 30 Mar 2017 11:39
Did you try shimming one just to see if they have spring loaded shackles?
They might use ball bearings, but it might give you a bit more insight if you can get them open in general.
Also, the one at the bottom of the picture looks like it has a key. Am I seeing things? Does that key not work?
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by Eazy123 » 30 Mar 2017 12:06
Ralph_Goodman wrote:Did you try shimming one just to see if they have spring loaded shackles?
They might use ball bearings, but it might give you a bit more insight if you can get them open in general.
Also, the one at the bottom of the picture looks like it has a key. Am I seeing things? Does that key not work?
Sorry, that was the eBay pic. The key is a blank. I don't have a shim (it's on my list for the next time I buy a batch of tools) but may try making one out of a coke can when I get home.
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by Eazy123 » 22 Apr 2017 14:13
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by mh » 22 Apr 2017 14:54
I think the way the holes are drilled into the padlock body is pretty much the standard way for a padlock.
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
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by kwoswalt99- » 22 Apr 2017 15:27
mh wrote:I think the way the holes are drilled into the padlock body is pretty much the standard way for a padlock.
Most brass padlocks are made this way.
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by Eazy123 » 22 Apr 2017 16:04
Well now I feel dumb. Lol. Didn't realize.
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by adi_picker » 22 Apr 2017 20:51
Gday Eazy, What the others have said above is correct, most padlocks are made in this manner with the body as the bible. Usually, if you look at the side of the padlock that the blade of the key point to, there will be little brass plugs covering the pin holes, or a small plate. Something like this.  This is the padlock in 'Locksmith Form', before it has been keyed, and any pins inserted. Once you have placed all pins and springs, you will then hammer brass plugs into the holes. This also works the other way, in that you can identify, and drill out the brass plugs to remove the pins. I use a 2.5mm drillbit myself, as it seems to grab the old plugs and withdraw them pretty well. Here is another example, with a plate covering the pins.  The above image is from this thread, about repinning Tri-Circle locks. I suspect you will find your Pado lock has one of the 2 above, and you can drill and repin if you so desire. adi_picker
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by Eazy123 » 22 Apr 2017 21:56
Thank you adi_picker. If there were plugs on the side I would have suspected that, but on these there is a long silver stripe going down the entirety of both sides. I had thought they were merely for decoration, but now after reading your post I'm betting one side is actually one of those plates and if I removed it I would find the holes for pin chambers. Learned something new, so thank you!
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by adi_picker » 23 Apr 2017 19:52
My pleasure Eazy!
I cant remember how many padlocks I have rekeyed in this fashion, so I'm more than happy to share my knowledge. I actually have a bunch of old Lockwood 5 and 6 pins padlocks that I have pulled the pins from for a rekey which never materialised. If you would like to practice, I would be more than happy to send them over to you with some fresh brass plugs to hammer into them. You will require some Lockwood blanks (Usually Silca LW4 or LW5) and some .115 diameter pins (Like a LAB .005 kit or such). Let me know if you are interested, shipping from me to the US runs about $20 AUD a kilogram, and the locks weigh 250 grams each, so you can get 3 to 4 in.
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by Eazy123 » 24 Apr 2017 9:24
adi_picker wrote:My pleasure Eazy!
I cant remember how many padlocks I have rekeyed in this fashion, so I'm more than happy to share my knowledge. I actually have a bunch of old Lockwood 5 and 6 pins padlocks that I have pulled the pins from for a rekey which never materialised. If you would like to practice, I would be more than happy to send them over to you with some fresh brass plugs to hammer into them. You will require some Lockwood blanks (Usually Silca LW4 or LW5) and some .115 diameter pins (Like a LAB .005 kit or such). Let me know if you are interested, shipping from me to the US runs about $20 AUD a kilogram, and the locks weigh 250 grams each, so you can get 3 to 4 in.
adi_picker
Thank you for the offer! I will PM for details. Out of curiosity, how do you pull the plugs from such a lock?
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by adi_picker » 24 Apr 2017 18:25
On the Lockwoods Eazy, there is another hidden pin that retains the plug on the face of the lock. Its the same deal, there is a larger pin to retain and a brass plug to cap the hole. The shackle is also the same. I dont have any pics on hand, although I might do a thread on it.
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by adi_picker » 26 Apr 2017 18:39
I did a tutorial on this Eazy, you can take a look here. adi_picker
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by Ralph_Goodman » 27 Apr 2017 11:27
Nice to see you got it open.
Surprised to see 6 pins.
Looks like it could be shimmed (unless those shackle cuts are made to look deceptive).
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by Eazy123 » 27 Apr 2017 18:33
Ralph_Goodman wrote:Nice to see you got it open.
Surprised to see 6 pins.
Looks like it could be shimmed (unless those shackle cuts are made to look deceptive).
No ball bearing but there is a sort of shaft that extends into the shackle cut. So I'm guessing shimming is an option. adi_picker wrote:I did a tutorial on this Eazy, you can take a look here. adi_picker
Thanks for the link - I will have to read it once or twice more. I don't have a drill so it looks a little complicated
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