My home made barrel key collection (& how to)

[kwoswalt99-]

Such a shame, all the pictures are gone.

[sleepyrz]

the link to the book doesnt exist?????

[kwoswalt99-]

the link to the book doesnt exist?????

http://www.blurb.com/b/6565733-the-extr ... -collector

[Lauren]

It's been too long...I know. But if you want to see my latest work, save up your coins and check this out....

http://www.blurb.com/b/7761676-the-extr ... r-book-two

[Lauren]

THE ABOVE LINK HAS BEEN BROKEN. HERE'S THE NEW ONE: http://www.blurb.com/b/7793878-the-extr ... r-book-two

[Squelchtone]

Thanks Lauren!

I wanted to ask about the padlock on the left of the new book. Were those made by Ames Sword or were they made by someone else like Corbin FOR Ames Sword?

I have one just like it sitting in front of me on my desk, and always wondered if they were made at the factory where I used to live or just made for Ames to use in securing sword shipments.

Thank you,
Squelchtone

[Lauren]

The padlock on the front cover is a rather large Ames Sword design. Other manufacturers (as you will see in my book) made similar locks.

[Lauren]

This very large AMES SWORD padlock was received without a key and in the closed position. Today, I machined a perfectly working key for this lock from solid cold rolled steel bar stock. The total bit width on the key was machined to .325 inch. This measurement is critical in order to avoid obstruction with a pair of raised lips that protrude from the inside of the top lock case cover. A similar pair of raised lips is located on the inside bottom of the lock case. These lips are sickle shaped and help center the tumbler stacks. The bit thickness was machined to .075 inch and the barrel hole was created with a #16 drill bit. A working key for these AMES SWORD padlock will work in either the clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Over cutting the bits will cause poor shackle movement and may not scissor the interlocking lever tumblers enough. Bit height is critical for these padlocks (to the nearest .005 inch). This padlock is stamped 70 on the shackle toe.

[Lauren]

I attempted to pick this YALE (model 575) padlock open, and was unsuccessful after many attempts. As a testimony, I have been attributed to the invention of many tumbler-trapping tools (TTT) on similar lever padlocks, such as the MILLER/YALE "NEW CHAMPION", YALE 1625, EAGLE "SIX LEVER", and the list goes on. In the spirit of TTT's, I was successful in decoding my YALE 575 with the aid of clamps. The clamps provide a hands-free approach for holding and torquing the TTT, while gap-gauging the lever tumblers within the key way at the twelve o'clock position. I can trap individual lever tumblers (L1 through L3) with one particular tool, or trap three lever tumblers at a time with a secondary tool. I like the three lever tool best, because of the improved exposure given to the tumbler surfaces within the key way. Besides, this tool becomes a necessity for trapping lever tumblers, L4 through L6 as a result of internal obstruction within the padlock. Trapping tumblers begins by picking one or more tumblers, while torquing the TTT counterclockwise. A distinct displacement of the tool is felt when the tumbler gates become aligned. Additional tumblers are trapped by torquing the TTT, while applying a slight downward force to engage the next tumbler gate as the targeted tumbler is elevated using a pick. Naturally, the top most tumbler should release. The multi-tumbler-trapping tools measures .150 inch wide at the tip to retain three .050 inch thick tumblers. I like using brass stock to make a temporary key before making the finished key from steel stock (not shown). The brass stock marks tumbler positions well with less damage to tumbler surfaces, and black marker should be applied.














Disclaimer: This lock is not discussed in THE EXTREME ANTIQUE PADLOCK COLLECTOR BOOK TWO.

[Lauren]

For those of you who own my books, the problem that I am about to describe will make more sense. When making barrel keys, I always struggled with getting the bit thickness to the desired result, and making certain the bit section would come out centered with the barrel. Many barrel keys require a #16 drill bit to create the barrel hole, and the bit thickness will often be between .075 and .085 inch on double bit keys. The problem of centering the bit section is easy if the barrel hole is drilled perfectly in the center of the bar stock (which is rarely the case), but the issue of a controlled bit thickness is still unresolved.

The real world situation will likely be the barrel hole is drilled slightly off center and a .075 inch bit thickness is required......How do you do it? The answer is simple. Use a centering pin. One side of the pin is made to fit the barrel hole firmly, but easily removed. The other side of the pin measures .075 inch in diameter. The drill press table is adjusted in height when the bottom of the disc cutter makes contact with pin with the right amount of friction in mind (similar to gap gauging a spark plug). The process is repeated when the work piece is flipped over.

[Lauren]

Scandinavian style padlocks are really fun to work with. I received this RUSSELL & ERWIN CO. padlock without a key and in the locked position. I intermittently inserted a drill bit to keep the discs centered within the key way, and manipulated each disc with a wire tool (starting at the bottom). Each disc tends to float excessively, and without the drill bit, picking the lock open would have been difficult. I made a key blank from tool steel and noticed that the bottom disc lagged as the key was rotated within the lock. To compensate for the lag, corresponding bits for discs one, two and three were beveled. Aside from the ward plate positions, which can be difficult to mark on the key blank with a black marker, the bit changes rests on a binary technique (either beveled on non-beveled bits).

[Lauren]

Scandinavian type padlocks can be really expensive, especially those with keys. Yet, those without keys can sometimes be purchased at great prices. Last week, I made a working key for this newest lock in my collection. The lock was obtained without a key and in locked position. The key was made from tool steel and the lock works flawlessly. Learn how to decode these locks your self in my latest book: http://www.blurb.com/b/7793878-the-extr ... r-book-two

[Lauren]

Well, this is where it all started for me. So, I am giving my final respect to this site. I am selling off all my padlocks and tools, many of which are listed on Ebay or have already sold. It's been a fun journey. Thank you LP101 and for supporting my books.

Sincerely,
Lauren Arndt
THE EXTREME ANTIQUE PADLOCK COLLECTOR

[tpark]

Well, this is where it all started for me. So, I am giving my final respect to this site. I am selling off all my padlocks and tools, many of which are listed on Ebay or have already sold. It's been a fun journey. Thank you LP101 and for supporting my books.

Sincerely,
Lauren Arndt
THE EXTREME ANTIQUE PADLOCK COLLECTOR

Thanks for all the information you've provided - I've managed to make keys for a number of antique locks. I'm sorry to see you go, hopefully you have fun with your future endeavors!

[Squelchtone]

Well, this is where it all started for me. So, I am giving my final respect to this site. I am selling off all my padlocks and tools, many of which are listed on Ebay or have already sold. It's been a fun journey. Thank you LP101 and for supporting my books.

Sincerely,
Lauren Arndt
THE EXTREME ANTIQUE PADLOCK COLLECTOR

Lauren,

I can't think about locksport without thinking about the contributions you made to our community and to the lock collector and lock picker hobbies.

Your beautiful photos and detailed write ups have taught entire new generations of lock hounds how antique locks work, and how to make keys for them to keep them working.

Thank you for everything and sorry to see you go.
Squelchtone