So...how to add an *old* lock to a new cabinet door?

[theTastyCat]

Hey all - long story short, I built a wall of cabinets and would like to add a lock to one. I recently returned from a trip to Scotland and was struck by the elegance and functionality of some very old locks which were still in service and still doing well, many requiring skeleton-ish keys. I'd like something like that for this lock and have found several similar ones on Ebay.

However, check out the cabinet door in question; since I didn't build it with a lock in mind, it's not really ideally suited for one. Might it be possible to mount one of these grand old locks on the inside of the door and put some kind of plate on the opposing jamb, then create a hollow for a bolt? I've seen several that also come with a front plate that could hide the hole I'd need to drill for the key.

Here's some pics:





Many thanks, all!!

[billdeserthills]

I'd like to say "yes" but I don't know what this 'grand old lock' looks like, without a photo
If you mean the 'Rim lock' that was designed to be mounted as you wish, inside the door
with a keyhole drilled through the door, and an escutecheon plate over the keyhole.

I can see using a mortise lock case, I don't think you need to build a box for it to sit in,
so much as perhaps a frame for each corner. The lock can be mounted 5/8" away from the
edge, and you could just add a strike, I like to use an "L" shaped piece of steel,( I usually get
mine from the 'charlie bars' as a left-over)--That would save having to making a hole in the side of the cabinet

You don't even need the 'L' shaped steel, a couple of wood screws will keep the door shut

Edit to say:
(On many cabinets the hinge screws can easily be removed, which negates the locking effect)

[theTastyCat]

Thanks very much for all this great info, Bill. Yes - I can see how much of this is hard to nail down without a picture!

I'm not sure how ebay links are looked upon here, but this is exactly the kind of thing I'm thinking about:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Vintage ... Sw42JZMHAD

So could you tell me more about mounting the lock 5/8" away from the edge of the door? I would have assumed it would need to be nearly flush to get the "bolt" (I'm sure that's the wrong word" good and deep into the other side. Fortunately this one comes with a strike plate; perhaps I could buy an escutecheon plate that would work to cover the hole in the door - are they generally one-size-fits-all?

And thanks for pointing out that the entire thing can be compromised by removing the hinges - this is a cabinet inside my home, and it's only to keep honest people honest so no great security risk here.

Thanks again for all the help!

[Jacob Morgan]

The eBay link looks like it is going to a mortise lock. As Bill indicated, a rim lock (may be called a surface mount lock also) would be more appropriate. A mortise lock goes into a hollowed out space in the door while a rim lock is mounted on the inside face of the door.

[theTastyCat]

Thanks, Jacob - I was ignorant of this as well! Is there an easy way to visually identify one or the other? I suspect that a lot of Ebay sellers likely wouldn't know the difference either...

Many thanks!

[theTastyCat]

Never mind - finding plenty by searching for "rim lock." Also understand what you mean about the simplicity of the bar vs. a strike plate! Thanks again, all - this is just the info I needed. I sure appreciate you all taking the time to respond!

[ratlock]

It is possible. If you added extra timber to the inside of the door for the lock to be morticed into, and extra timber onto the jamb side for the keeper.
However, this would take up so much extra space in your drink cabinet, you would have little or no space for your drinks.
If someone is having a sneaky snifter at your whisky try this.



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bottle-Top-St ... SwImRYT-ya

[theTastyCat]

Brilliant, rat!!

[ltdbjd]

The bottle lock looks to be the Keedex lock here in the U.S.

http://www.keedex.com/Main_Pages/Products/retailproducts/retail.html. 2nd item from the top.

[theTastyCat]

Genius. It is a rather complicated situation - but this is great to know about as well!

[billdeserthills]

Thanks very much for all this great info, Bill. Yes - I can see how much of this is hard to nail down without a picture!

I'm not sure how ebay links are looked upon here, but this is exactly the kind of thing I'm thinking about:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Vintage ... Sw42JZMHAD

So could you tell me more about mounting the lock 5/8" away from the edge of the door? I would have assumed it would need to be nearly flush to get the "bolt" (I'm sure that's the wrong word" good and deep into the other side. Fortunately this one comes with a strike plate; perhaps I could buy an escutecheon plate that would work to cover the hole in the door - are they generally one-size-fits-all?

And thanks for pointing out that the entire thing can be compromised by removing the hinges - this is a cabinet inside my home, and it's only to keep honest people honest so no great security risk here.

Thanks again for all the help!

I don't suppose you really need to mount your lock with a 5/8" gap, you can just mount it on the edge
of the door. You'll need to make a frame to hold the lock in position, or use some shim stock to mount
it so it is held firmly in place-

The rim lock would be easier, as it is already flat on the side that sits next to the door

[theTastyCat]

Alright all, got a beautifully restored rim lock in today:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122393970250

And predictably, I have some stupid questions.

So the lock is going on the back side of the door - any hot tips on drilling the hole for the key in exactly the right place? Maybe I could hold the lock in position and try to scuff up the door by putting something thin and sharp through the hole?

I'm pretty nervous about getting the lock to close the door snugly - I'm worried I'll get things screwed in and realize it's in the wrong place. These are built-in cabinets so I really don't have any margin for error. I guess I'll have to just see what happens regarding how the lock fits up with the jamb.

I didn't have the foresight to realize a doorknob would be necessary to open the latch and allow the door to open - are they interchangeable?

Many thanks, all!

[tjohn]

Hate that I broke in late here but there are Cabinet style "Rim mount" style locks and there are regular door lock style Rim locks which is what you purchased.
A Cabinet Rim mount lock simply screws on the back with (typically) 4 screws and is much smaller and only requires the one keyhole shaped hole.
If you go to Leevalley.com you can see plenty of different sizes of Cabinet "Rim mount" or surface mount style as well as half Mortise & full Mortise style which have only a bolt, no springlatch.
While you """could""" use that, I don't recommend it.

[tjohn]

like these, which is pretty much the standard locks for cabinets http://www.leevalley.com/us/Hardware/pa ... 3631,43634

[ratlock]

If you bought the lock now, and dont need the latch...

Open the case and throw it away, and leave the bolt/lock assembly. mount the lock on the face of the back of the door. Just make sure your screws are not too long, or they will end up through the door.

Dont worry about little mistakes mounting it. Hold it where you want, and mark your key hole position with a pencil.
The escutcheon will cover up minor mistakes.

Be careful when drilling wood. If you drill from front to back you wont see any burst through, spinters.

Depending on what type of bit you use, (ie speed bit or auger) drill half way through till you feel the point of the bit on the other side, then stop and drill from the other side. That way you get a nice clean hole front and back.