Need help fixing or installing a lock? We welcome questions from the public here! Sorry, no automotive questions, please.
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WE DO NOT ANSWER QUESTIONS ABOUT AUTOMOTIVE OR MOTORCYCLE LOCKS OR IGNITIONS ON THIS FORUM. THIS INCLUDES QUESTIONS ABOUT PICKING, PROGRAMMING, OR TAKING APART DOOR OR IGNITION LOCKS,
by Tyler J. Thomas » 10 Jun 2017 19:36
ratlock wrote:Be careful when drilling wood. If you drill from front to back you wont see any burst through, spinters.
Just drill a small pilot hole, use it as a guide, and then use the larger bit on both sides of the door and meet halfway through the middle.
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Tyler J. Thomas
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by theTastyCat » 11 Jun 2017 13:11
Well, I think that a cabinet lock is exactly what I need here. Hate it since I've already got this other lock, and it is beautiful, but this would require a doorknob, etc., whereas these cabinet locks require only a keyhole. I think I'll chalk this one up to an educational experience and get one ordered! Wonder which one...
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by globallockytoo » 11 Jun 2017 13:25
Any of these locks help you out? http://www.serme.it/en/catalogo/serie/20/m/I have MPECC 30 and 20 in stock, but they are mortise type (not screw on) Cost about $6 each and $4 per key.
One One was a race horse, one one won one race, one two was a racehorse, one two won one too.
Disclaimer: Do not pull tag off mattress. Not responsible for legal advice while laughing. Bilock - The Original True Bump Proof Pin Tumbler System!
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by theTastyCat » 12 Jun 2017 22:03
Many thanks for the offer Global, but I already went with one of the Lee Valley locks. But I do appreciate it!
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by theTastyCat » 16 Jun 2017 20:45
Hey all - finally got around to figuring out how to install the cabinet lock. So hmm...since the back of the closed door is flush with the front of the frame, what's the best way to do this? I can see three options, but I'm not in love with any of them: 1. Add a piece of wood between the lock and the door so that the deadbolt sits far enough back to reach behind the door frame (3/4" thick or so.) I imagine this would be the most secure but I'd have to be exactly correct with the width of the wood because too thin and it won't be able to lock and too thick and it will have play once locked. Also, there's really no way to test this aside from just installing it and hoping I don't get it wrong too many times! 2. I could buy and install the L-shaped strike and screw it into the door frame from the right side such that the non-screwed-in side is basically flush with the door frame; then the deadbolt could hopefully slide in behind it. However, it seems it would be laughably easy to just pull the door open since all that's holding the strike in place are two screws which are in sideways. 3. I could attempt to create a space in the frame for the deadbolt to sit in. I HATE THIS OPTION because a. the cabinet is already built so zero margin for error and b. there would be a laughably thin bit of wood left to hold the bolt in. So maybe option 1? I'd be delighted to hear that there's an easy way to do this that I haven't thought of  Many thanks, all!!
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by billdeserthills » 16 Jun 2017 21:13
Well I had figured from the beginning you would wind up using the 'L' strike and I guessed the bolt length was 1/2" throw, so there's where I got the 5/8" backset idea from Is the bolt 1/2" throw when you lock it? This way the bolt holds the door shut, but has a bit of slack
If you think this part is interesting, just wait till you begin locating the exact spot for the "L" strike to go
it's an added benefit to try and place the "L" strike where you won't be constantly bumping into it-- can be very annoying
Oh and about this being too easy to open to justify doing the work well, that's on you, I think I already mentioned simply removing the hinges to get in earlier--But you can still put some hinge pins in & and fix that.
In real life it doesn't matter what you do to reinforce a piece of wood cause anyone with a rock can bash it open & IDK about where you live, but rocks are very cheap & plentiful in arizona
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by theTastyCat » 16 Jun 2017 21:19
Well, honestly I hadn't considered mounting the L-strike with longer screws so it would have some security. It actually wouldn't be hugely in the way...that may well be the answer!
Still, it's gonna be tough to get it right the very first time...if I screw up, I'm pretty much sunk since I can't drill another hole 1/32" inch away from a preexisting one :/ any words of advice on that? I do totally see what you're saying about the 5/8" setback for the 1/2" bolt - makes good sense!
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by billdeserthills » 16 Jun 2017 21:23
I just file out the holes in the 'L' strike and turn them into slides--I use my die grinder and it's super fast & easy, except for the burning part where I can't leave it alone long enough to cool down You only hafta file after you miss & just do one screw till you find the right placement
If you look around a hardware store sometimes you find a nice 'L' with one slot already cut into it
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by theTastyCat » 16 Jun 2017 21:47
Bill, this is GENIUS...it actually did cross my mind "hmm, wish they sold that L-strike with slides!!" Brilliant. So basically mount the lock itself, then pilot hole and one screw through one hole of the L-strike, screwed just tight enough to sort of hold it in place, and try it...if good, second screw and tighten, if not, apply die grinder (dremel instead?) to slightly elongate both holes, then try again?
Sorry to ask so many *stupid* questions, but I've screwed up too many things in my life by doing it wrong the first time! I don't want to admit how much stuff I've built and still am this stupid........
Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help!!
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by theTastyCat » 25 Jun 2017 20:45
Done! Even got the strike in the right place the very first time. There's absolutely zero play and the whole thing is very solid. It's as functional as I needed and it really looks nice - this picture is sort of crap because you can see inside the crack due to the flash, but ordinarily it looks great and has brought a measure of class to the house!  And...girlfriend likes the other lock so much that I'm going to replace the bathroom door lock with it! My only concerns are that the modern knob hole is much bigger, so I may either have to put some sort of ugly plate over it and relocate the knob or just build a new door since it's as crappy a hollow-core interior door as any. Also, there's rounded trim where the strike will have to go, and seems that I may have to cut into the trim to create a flat surface to install the strike into.....the fun continues!! Thank you all so very much for all of the help!!
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by tjohn » 26 Jun 2017 6:19
Great job! I'm glad I saw this in time, I would have been kinda sad about seeing a door lock on a Cabinet 
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by theTastyCat » 26 Jun 2017 8:33
Thank you all! Really this exercise has given me pause to reflect on how awesome the internet is - twenty years ago I would likely have just given up on the idea. Can't thank you all enough!
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