day in the life of a locksmith

[ltdbjd]

Note to self. When putting a cylinder back in an ABUS with the Z bar for the key retaining feature, make sure to turn the cylinder to the unlock position before sliding it in and tightening the retaining screw. It bends the Z bar, not to mention not working well.

2nd note to self. When smacking the ABUS cylinder against the table to knock the pins out, take care not to let the plug rotate back. Otherwise you end up with an unknown number of top pins where the bottom pins should have been. On the bright side (kind of), I got to work with a deep hook (and a shim) to put everything back in place.

15 pinned, only 35 more to go. Of course, I would have had more pinned, but I ended up with a 30 minute "break" trying to open the one I jacked up.

Sigh ...

[GWiens2001]

Sounds like sound advise. Sounds like a rough day.

Gordon

[Tyler J. Thomas]

Note to self. When putting a cylinder back in an ABUS with the Z bar for the key retaining feature, make sure to turn the cylinder to the unlock position before sliding it in and tightening the retaining screw. It bends the Z bar, not to mention not working well.

2nd note to self. When smacking the ABUS cylinder against the table to knock the pins out, take care not to let the plug rotate back. Otherwise you end up with an unknown number of top pins where the bottom pins should have been. On the bright side (kind of), I got to work with a deep hook (and a shim) to put everything back in place.

15 pinned, only 35 more to go. Of course, I would have had more pinned, but I ended up with a 30 minute "break" trying to open the one I jacked up.

Sigh ...

That's happened to me before. The second thing.

I made a comb pick to clear the plug and rotate it.

[shutterstuff]

Note to self. When putting a cylinder back in an ABUS with the Z bar for the key retaining feature, make sure to turn the cylinder to the unlock position before sliding it in and tightening the retaining screw. It bends the Z bar, not to mention not working well.

2nd note to self. When smacking the ABUS cylinder against the table to knock the pins out, take care not to let the plug rotate back. Otherwise you end up with an unknown number of top pins where the bottom pins should have been. On the bright side (kind of), I got to work with a deep hook (and a shim) to put everything back in place.

15 pinned, only 35 more to go. Of course, I would have had more pinned, but I ended up with a 30 minute "break" trying to open the one I jacked up.

Sigh ...

I have done the exact same thing!

Last week it was the Master Lock 6125. The cam got jammed part way down and I could not dislodge it. I only had 4 to rekey and it took me over 30 minutes...

[ltdbjd]

Yesterday I installed a Corbin-Russwin ML2037 (Institutional function) mortise lock with the vandal resistant (VR) trim. I'd never used the VR before, since the lowest bidder was around $880 per lock. After having about a zillion Grade 1 handles bent down to 45 degree angles, or snapped off completely, I was able to get the state to go for the VR (which is about $500 more than we had been paying). I've been replacing 3 to 4 handles a week, so it was about time to look at the VR option.

I have to say I was impressed. The difference between the Grade 1 in standard trim and the VR is sizable.

From CR:

"Security
In applications where increased security is required, look no further than the ML2000VR Vandal Resistant Trim. This cast stainless steel trim features tapered edges, double through bolts, torx-pin tamper resistant screws and the lever remains attached to the escutcheon when
the spindle is broken."

I also noticed the trim uses solid steel spindles, vs the hollow brass and eye bolt spindles on the trim we had been using.

It took a lot more drilling and some grinding to retrofit the into steel doors, but in the end I think it was worth the cost, time and effort.

[Ralph_Goodman]

Yesterday I installed a Corbin-Russwin ML2037 (Institutional function) mortise lock with the vandal resistant (VR) trim. I'd never used the VR before, since the lowest bidder was around $880 per lock. After having about a zillion Grade 1 handles bent down to 45 degree angles, or snapped off completely, I was able to get the state to go for the VR (which is about $500 more than we had been paying). I've been replacing 3 to 4 handles a week, so it was about time to look at the VR option.

Were you installing it for yourself or for a customer?

It almost sounds like you are saying you were "replacing 3 to 4 handles a week" on your own property. Is that right?

Seems more likely that you are talking about installing them for customers, but I just wanted some clarification.

[Tyler J. Thomas]

Yesterday I installed a Corbin-Russwin ML2037 (Institutional function) mortise lock with the vandal resistant (VR) trim. I'd never used the VR before, since the lowest bidder was around $880 per lock. After having about a zillion Grade 1 handles bent down to 45 degree angles, or snapped off completely, I was able to get the state to go for the VR (which is about $500 more than we had been paying). I've been replacing 3 to 4 handles a week, so it was about time to look at the VR option.

I have to say I was impressed. The difference between the Grade 1 in standard trim and the VR is sizable.

From CR:

"Security
In applications where increased security is required, look no further than the ML2000VR Vandal Resistant Trim. This cast stainless steel trim features tapered edges, double through bolts, torx-pin tamper resistant screws and the lever remains attached to the escutcheon when
the spindle is broken."

I also noticed the trim uses solid steel spindles, vs the hollow brass and eye bolt spindles on the trim we had been using.

It took a lot more drilling and some grinding to retrofit the into steel doors, but in the end I think it was worth the cost, time and effort.

I've never installed or serviced an ML2000VR. Are the handles "clutched"? In other words, do they allow for free movement even when locked? I've installed quite a few of BEST's anti-ligature/vandal resistant trim and I've always been thoroughly impressed with them.

In my own world I have been keying up A LOT of cylinders for my new job. A LOT of Medeco mixed in with Corbin Russwin and Schlage and KeyMark. I thought I knew most of these systems well enough to key them. I did but I was woefully unprepared for the high-caliber sort of thought process and reasoning behind actual master key systems. I also thought I knew a good deal of master keying but this experience has been humbling. I've been reading a lot lately on the subject and will continue to do so.

You figure when you can key up SFIC and all standard residential and commercial stuff that you have a firm grasp on the rest. I've done tons of Medeco over the years but it's been a while since I've touched them. I've found that it goes much, much beyond simply 3K + 3T in the 1st chamber, etc. I've been humbled to say the least but holy crap am I going to be well rounded in a few months.

[GWiens2001]

I've been humbled to say the least but holy crap am I going to be well rounded in a few months.

Then you will have to start keying Abloy. Then MIWA.

Gordon

[ltdbjd]

Then keying ASSA where EVERYTHING is reversed. 1 is the deepest cut, chambers go tip to bow, even the pinning kit is laid out the exact opposite of LAB.

Tyler, the handles are always rigid on the locked side for Institutional and Storeroom. They move freely on the deadlock function (deadbolt only). I don't recall for sure, but I think they move freely with an entry function. I could be wrong though, I almost never use entry any more.

Ralph, I'm an institutional locksmith, so I only work for one "customer." I'm actually in the process of getting rid of a bunch of the handles because they get broken so often. I'll be using a push/pull plate with a hole drilled out for the cylinder on the exterior side. They are storeroom function, so the handle isn't needed on the exterior. The cam retracts the latch. I'll be "converting" them to half-trim with a fender washer and machine screw to secure the inside handle.

[Tyler J. Thomas]

I've been humbled to say the least but holy crap am I going to be well rounded in a few months.

Then you will have to start keying Abloy. Then MIWA.

Gordon

I'm actually really dang good at MIWA. I did MIWA for almost 5 years.

Then again I thought I was really dang good at Medeco...

[billdeserthills]

I had a sweet job the other day, my client wanted locks on the two bathrooms that could not be locked without a key--
and I had a box with 5 that I had recently taken off a school (they wanted entry levers so they can push a button & lock the door)
A small, short job, just right for triple digit tuesday, so I installed the classroom function levers, the inside doors already
had little slide bolts for bathroom privacy, I musta made 8 trips back to the van for stuff, I was so glad they had an elevator

I love selling used stuff, the client gets a break (1/2 price) and I still make a good profit

[cledry]

This week we got 3 mk jobs, one will also include supplying and installing 90 Schlage ND locks. The other 2 are smaller, just 35 - 40 locks mastered. We have also done 4 access control jobs, 2 door installs and the usual normal stuff. Kabas, Simplex locks etc. Very profitable week all in all. All the techs except one are working 60 + hours a week.

[Tyler J. Thomas]

Cledry or bill, do either of you sell/install Arrow's MLX line?

Their mounting posts/screws are throwing me for a loop. On retrofit installations or preps with holes already drilled (like BEST 9K), the posts/screws don't quite line up. On new installations, the MAJOR HIT-111 jig doesn't quite get them where they should be. I haven't measured them but it's like their mounting posts are slightly further apart than other 12-6 models. I can still get them on the door pretty quickly but on retrofits I'm usually having to drill bigger holes and on new installations I can't use the jig and have to rely on the paper template. Any advice? Insight?

[billdeserthills]

Sorry Tyler, I mostly work the with older, outdated technology of yesteryear

[cledry]

Cledry or bill, do either of you sell/install Arrow's MLX line?

Their mounting posts/screws are throwing me for a loop. On retrofit installations or preps with holes already drilled (like BEST 9K), the posts/screws don't quite line up. On new installations, the MAJOR HIT-111 jig doesn't quite get them where they should be. I haven't measured them but it's like their mounting posts are slightly further apart than other 12-6 models. I can still get them on the door pretty quickly but on retrofits I'm usually having to drill bigger holes and on new installations I can't use the jig and have to rely on the paper template. Any advice? Insight?

Not really, but it wouldn't surprise me that they are different. When levers first came out there was no real standard. I can't recall which brands but there were several that were just slightly off from the Schlage spacing that my jig was for. Arrow may have been one of those.