Forgot how to dial the combination on that old safe? Think you got the right numbers but the handle is stuck? What safe should you buy? Ask your safe questions here!
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by stratmando » 23 Jul 2017 11:02
Just want to throw something in about the Soldered Fence. If a Dishonest Safe technician used a low melt solder to attach the fence, Heat may be applied to the lock later, the Fence may fall out? the you just turn dial to open? [color=red][b]Removed destructive entry information - this is not the advanced forum![/b][/color] So, you would need to apply heat to your lock be sure it has not been Violated/Modified?
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by GWiens2001 » 23 Jul 2017 11:48
That would be quite a bit of work for a dishonest safe tech. Plus, it would take a great deal of heat to melt the solder (even low temp solder) from a safe lock fence since you would have to heat the door, lock body, and air within the safe lock enough to melt the solder. Good luck having the dial work by the time someone applied that much heat.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by stratmando » 23 Jul 2017 15:50
I have the 6730, It is soldered. Was Just a Thought. How about some Adhesive, Epoxy, Something That could be dissolved with a Chemical Liquid, remove Spindle, spray inside, Wait 30 Seconds, Install Dial.
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by ltdbjd » 23 Jul 2017 18:00
If you remove the fence, you're in a hurt locker.
When the correct combo is dialed, all the gates are aligned under the fence, allowing the fence to drop in. As the dial is rotated to the right (on this S&G) for the last time, the gates pull the fence (away from the bolt). As it does, it retracts the bolt. If there isn't a fence, there's no way to retract the bolt. In other words, a lockout. Rut-Roh.
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by kwoswalt99- » 23 Jul 2017 18:38
ltdbjd wrote:If you remove the fence, you're in a hurt locker.
When the correct combo is dialed, all the gates are aligned under the fence, allowing the fence to drop in. As the dial is rotated to the right (on this S&G) for the last time, the gates pull the fence (away from the bolt). As it does, it retracts the bolt. If there isn't a fence, there's no way to retract the bolt. In other words, a lockout. Rut-Roh.
The lever is the whole thing, the fence is just the post that sticks out.
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by ltdbjd » 23 Jul 2017 19:52
Yah ... probably should have thought that one through before I posted it, since really the nose drops into the cam, which pulls it open. Never mind, HUA.
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by GWiens2001 » 23 Jul 2017 19:57
ltdbjd wrote:Yah ... probably should have thought that one through before I posted it, since really the nose drops into the cam, which pulls it open. Never mind, HUA.
No, you are right. Just that the fence is part of the lever, so pulling the fence does pull the bolt. Think he was just trying to clarify in case someone did not understand. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by billdeserthills » 23 Jul 2017 23:42
ltdbjd wrote:If you remove the fence, you're in a hurt locker.
When the correct combo is dialed, all the gates are aligned under the fence, allowing the fence to drop in. As the dial is rotated to the right (on this S&G) for the last time, the gates pull the fence (away from the bolt). As it does, it retracts the bolt. If there isn't a fence, there's no way to retract the bolt. In other words, a lockout. Rut-Roh.
It is possible that pushing the safe over or dropping it properly would dislodge the bolt and allow it to open without external damage Once the fence is out of the picture nothing much blocks the bolt from being moved
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by Lelandwelds » 23 Aug 2017 15:41
Nice photos. I have been watching the factory youtube for this same exact lock. The factory makes this seem like a simple install. Your photos show some extra detail . I am still considering using but I need to keep studying.
I noticed this lock because of its length of service. Plus, it is selected OFTEN for a variety of uses. The products this lock is chosen for cover a big difference in price.
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by 007Safecracker » 20 Jan 2018 13:07
like its been said, only the wheel post should be lubricated..grease that touches the flies on the wheels will harden and impede the flies movement: resulting in inconsistent operation
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by Sleutelboertje » 9 Nov 2018 14:58
What a post Gordon! Great pictures and I have saved them on my hd! Thanks.
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by whatr » 23 Apr 2019 3:27
Wow great post!! excellent pictures and information. wish i had that before i started working on my safe, would have save me a lot of time.. thanks for posting It.
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by dmux » 11 Jan 2020 9:16
I am grave digging this post because it deserves much praise. Thank you very much for putting all of your efforts into this.
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by GWiens2001 » 11 Jan 2020 23:08
Thank you all for the praise. I try my best to make my posts clear and understandable.
If any of you have questions, tips, suggestions, additions or corrections, please feel free to post them. Look at the signature I use below. That says it all.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by Black85vette » 11 Feb 2021 10:49
Really glad someone did some "grave digging" and returned this post to the top for noobs like me. Very much enjoyed the photos and writeup. While much newer than mine it helps me understand the nomenclature and functions of the parts.
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