Thinking of upgrading your door security? Getting a better deadbolt or padlock? Getting a new frame or better hinges? Not sure what brand or model to go with for your particular application? Need a recommendation? Feel free to ask for advice here!
by jamesbond » 9 Dec 2017 23:23
Hello,
I am installing two metal gates on my residential property, one for vehicles and one for pedestrians.
The vehicle gate which is two leafs, about 6 ft each, will have a motor with arms which opens and closes the gates.
I guess there will be no lock on that gate -- the one for the vehicles
There will however be a lock on the pedestrian gate which will be about 3ft wide. That will NOT be motorized, it will just be a swing gate
So for this gate I will need:
a) A good lock and deadbolt so that I can lock the gate when out of the house etc and at night.
The installer is giving me a KWIKSET lock and deadbolt which I presume is pretty run of the mill
b) I asked the installer what if I forget the lock the pedestrian gate?
Is there some auto locking option? One option he told me is to use some sort of electric magnet that keeps the gate locked at all times, and then I need to press a button to open it??
Thus I wanted to ask all of you, what are the best lock and deadbolt for the pedestrian gate and is this magnet lock a good option to keep it locked at all times....the downside is that if I lose electricity, the door will not remain locked with the magnet lock....it may only remain locked with the deadbolt and keyed lock if I use that too
Please do recommend some options to me
Thank you
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jamesbond
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by cledry » 9 Dec 2017 23:39
We do a lot of pool gates and other pedestrian gates here in Florida. Magnets work but you will need a 1200 lb magnet not a 600 lb magnet on a gate, the reason is most gates just aren't built and supported well enough. So if someone stands on the gate or bounces up and down most 600lb magnets will give as they aren't shear magnets. If you want to use a 600 lb magnet you should have a stop with a locator pin so the gate remains in position.
You could use a storeroom function grade 1 knob lock with some sort of closer or spring, this would lock each time it closes automatically. You could use a panic bar on the inside. Both these choices will require some expanded metal as a guard and a shield on the panic bar. Marks Lock makes some interesting options for gates. You could use a Locinox Vinci. There are lots of choices. Just stay away from Codelock, they are not very well-made.
Jim
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cledry
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by billdeserthills » 10 Dec 2017 21:12
The cheapest 'auto-lock' system I know is using a Kwikset Gate Latch, looks like a Kwikset deadbolt with a key on both sides (double-sided) along with a gate-latch, which allows the gate to lock when it is closed. This is extensively used in Arizona, where many cheap folks reside & costs hundreds less than a mag lock will
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billdeserthills
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by demux » 11 Dec 2017 11:32
billdeserthills wrote:The cheapest 'auto-lock' system I know is using a Kwikset Gate Latch, looks like a Kwikset deadbolt with a key on both sides (double-sided) along with a gate-latch, which allows the gate to lock when it is closed. This is extensively used in Arizona, where many cheap folks reside & costs hundreds less than a mag lock will
Schlage makes one like this as well, it's their B250 gate latch. Marks also has one that looks like it'll take a SFIC, their 145RK (that might have been one that cledry was referring to). If you go the magnetic route and are worried about power outages, you can also get a battery backup for the system. We have a couple at work (the 600lb ones) and they do last a while on battery power.
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demux
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by globallockytoo » 11 Dec 2017 14:27
Try the Lokklatch by D&D technologies. About $55.00, double cylinder, Kwikset keyway, simple install. recommended for swimming pools, pedestrian gates etc. Totally mechanical and self locking. lokk latch
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by stratmando » 11 Dec 2017 17:54
Just some ideas, Most Gate Operator have 2 terminals that open when gate is operating and you can wire between Power and a MagLock to secure when closed. Could use 4 conductor armored Cable(2 for Mag Power, 2 For Tamper/Alarm, as cutting power would release gate. You can have an electric strike for Ped gate and have an outdoor keypad inside and out that allow opening Vehicle AND/or Pedestrian Gates(different codes) with a Fob, Visor Transmitter, Code, and could also use a Schlage Gate spring Latch Some Strikes Are Field Selectable to be Fail Safe(opens when power is lost), or Fail Secure(Secures when power lost) Some operators use 24 Volt power, Could use 2 Car Batteries during long outages, Solar? Viking Electronics makes a 4 Channel Network Controller, Allow remote controlling of 4 SPDT Contacts, and you can be notified of 4 different Opening or closure of contacts. They work great, I use to remotely control Water, Air Conditioning, Water Heaters, Shutters, Bypassing, Alarm, Unlimited. and can be notified of something on, closed, Alarm, Unlimited. Liftmaster makes a Gateway that works with their products, can open, close, and know if opened or closed. Some keypads allow a code to do a timed output(a few seconds), another code to toggle. Use that when you want free access during a Party or something? I'm in South Florida
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by cledry » 11 Dec 2017 18:12
I would not recommend the Schlage gate latch nor the Kwikset one. Better off if going the double keyed route to use an institutional knob, even an inexpensive one from LSDA or similar will last longer than either of the aforementioned products.
Jim
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cledry
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by billdeserthills » 11 Dec 2017 20:04
cledry wrote:I would not recommend the Schlage gate latch nor the Kwikset one. Better off if going the double keyed route to use an institutional knob, even an inexpensive one from LSDA or similar will last longer than either of the aforementioned products.
Sounds like you've been hurt before--I see Kwikset & Schlage gate latches that last for many years in my state the key is in a proper installation--a bit of teflon grease doesn't hurt either
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billdeserthills
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by jamesbond » 12 Dec 2017 10:41
Thank you for the many replies. @globallockkytoo I think the locklatch may be a good starting point do you know if this is the model I need? http://ddtechglobal.com/product/lokklatch_pro_slIf I were to get the lock latch, is that all I need or do I need to get a separate lock as well? I am new to this so pardon my ignorance. Let's say I get the lock latch, what other hardware/locks do I need to operate the gate? For example will this lock latch system require me to use a key each time to open it even when exiting Or can I add like a pushbar or strike bar whatever it is called to exit i.e when I am leaving from the house I presume this system is different to that of a magnet lock thank you
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jamesbond
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by stratmando » 12 Dec 2017 18:50
Those To Me, seem bulky, lot of protruding going on. How about a Strike, these work pretty good. http://www.seco-larm.com/en/index.php?f ... t%2FsearchWould'nt use deadbolt as you would have to turn handle each time closing, nicer to swing the gate closed. That Mechanical latch doesn't have any electronics Some of the indoor models last pretty good outdoors, if kept sprayed. ones I ran into. Can you elaborate? Was about to load, but need to show this since you have a Vehicle Gate: http://www.seco-larm.com/access-control ... K-1123-FDQOne on the inside, one on outside would work well to operate Main Gate, and Ped Gate, Also has one time codes and time limited codes, Very Handy, Convenient, Will make life a little easier, and a little poorer.
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stratmando
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by stratmando » 12 Dec 2017 19:39
VOXXHirschmann make an eFob, that allows your car to turn on when close(Proximity), Likely be able to adapt to a gate, where you could push the gate open with no code, if you had phone in pocket. Likely? have to leave Bluetooth on? Not sure if able to turn on?
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stratmando
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by jamesbond » 12 Dec 2017 21:57
Appreciate your assistance @stratmando and others
Are you recommending that I get a seco-larm electric door strike? If so, would I need a lock and deadbolt as well?
Sincere apologies I do not know much about the mechanism of the locks.
I presume I would also need to connect the electric door strike to 110/120v ac...I have 110/120v ac at the gate.
Additionally, I like the Vandal Resistant Flush-Mount Access Control Keypad, how can I find out if this will work with the liftmaster control panel that I have on the vehicle gate?? Is there some spec or frequency I need to look for?
I can ask my installer, but he is not 100% clued in about the keypads etc.
Thank you
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jamesbond
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by stratmando » 13 Dec 2017 9:27
With the strike, you could get away with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CIZ9O98/re ... 5626931930Stainless and outdoor would be better, Can have turn knobs/handles as well, and keyed. I believe that keypad and strike will work with 12/24 volt AC or DC. Verify when ordering. The Main Gate Operator should have Accessory Power and could power the small Gate If the Operator was like a Liftmaster CSW 24 U, which has Battery Back Up, it has 500mA Auxilary power available. Be sure Keypads and Strike can handle 24 volts DC. Add up the mA's and don't exceed. If more power is needed, just use a small 24 Volt Transformer. For added Security during Power outages, You could have a small charging board and 1 or 2 Batteries(12 or 24 volts, 7Ah). or extend run time. Can draw up circuit if needed. wiring the keypads and strike should not be a proble for your electrician. Just need a 4 conductor cable. He would connect red and black to power input on Keypads, then (We'll say green and white for other 2 conductors), Have Black go to the strike as well, then a jumper from red to the No Contact of the Keypad, other contact of keypad will go to strike positive, You will parallel both Keypads contacts so if either has a code entered, it will power the strike. Be sure Strike has the ability to be Fail SECURE, if that is what you want/need. Good Luck Oh yeah, if you get Keypads that have 2 outputs, Second one can go to the Operators 2 conductor OPEN terminals wwhich the Liftmaster has. Can help more if you need
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stratmando
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by globallockytoo » 13 Dec 2017 13:10
jamesbond wrote:Thank you for the many replies. @globallockkytoo I think the locklatch may be a good starting point do you know if this is the model I need? http://ddtechglobal.com/product/lokklatch_pro_slIf I were to get the lock latch, is that all I need or do I need to get a separate lock as well? I am new to this so pardon my ignorance. Let's say I get the lock latch, what other hardware/locks do I need to operate the gate? For example will this lock latch system require me to use a key each time to open it even when exiting Or can I add like a pushbar or strike bar whatever it is called to exit i.e when I am leaving from the house I presume this system is different to that of a magnet lock thank you
Yup. That model is solely key operated. It is the complete unit. No need for an extra lock. It is NOT panic escape. You require to key operate it only. Remember, anything electronic is subject to weathering. Anything battery powered must be sufficiently weatherized and batteries will still require replacement at least every six months. Mechanical is certainly the way to go, if fitted in exposed weather conditions.
One One was a race horse, one one won one race, one two was a racehorse, one two won one too.
Disclaimer: Do not pull tag off mattress. Not responsible for legal advice while laughing. Bilock - The Original True Bump Proof Pin Tumbler System!
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