GKL Hinge Doctor HA2 "The Hulk" Template

[ltdbjd]

I use the larger ones on almost a daily basis; twice yesterday. I’ve never used the residential one.

At least on institutional hinges mounted on steel doors and frames, it works great. I’ve never had an issue damaging hinge screws; but again, the hardware I work on is much different than residential, or even commercial grade.

The one and only problem I’ve had with it is bending the hinge too much, at which point the door won’t stay fully closed. Instead, it springs open a few inches. I solve this problem by placing progressively thicker strike plates between the hinge leaves (leafs?) and shutting the door on them. This spreads them apart, so the door stays shuts. It’s a balancing act to get it just right.

I almost always use it on the top hinge in order to square the door in the frame, by raising the top non-hinge corner. Although I don’t think this is a recommended use, I’ve used them on all three hinges to move the entire door closer to the hinge side of the frame.

[Tyler J. Thomas]

Good to know! Jim I'm interested...do you open the door to straighten the hinge or take a wrench to the wrench flats on the (I assume older gen) Hinge Doctor?

I think you're describing the residential version. I think.

HA2 and HA3, from what I can remember, are blue and black, respectively. HA2 is the one that does most commercial hinges and HA3 handles the oversized ones. I've used HA2/HA3 for years.

You close the door, drop the hinge doctor over the hinge (sometimes it has to be tapped into place with a hammer if the hinges are exceptionally bad), open the door until it binds and you feel resistance, and then you open it about 3-4 inches past that point, sometimes a bit more. You adjust the top hinge, sometimes the middle hinge(s), but never the bottom.

The over-zealous comment cledry made rings true if you get carried away. You can actually cause the hinge pin and knuckles to shift towards the frame which changes the pivot point and the door won't seat completely in the frame - it will want to push open an inch or two, or maybe even more. I've only done this a few times but it does suck and makes a quick job a bit more involved. You'll do that 3-4 inch mark and almost get the door where you need it, try an inch more and get a bit closer, and so on and so forth until you go too far and...well...it sucks, don't do it.

Hope this helps. They are great tools and real life savers.