Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by greengrowlocks » 9 May 2018 3:25
Thanks Gordon, shortly after the SK6 I did get the Multiprofil open too. I was a little disappointed because I thought the other elements in the lock were suppose to be active. I don't believe I touched them unless I set them by accident when picking. IKON SK6 Multiprofil  
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greengrowlocks
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by GWiens2001 » 10 May 2018 23:15
Smith & Egge Giant padlock that I acquired in the locked position without a key. Only four levers, so guessing it is an earlier model. If someone knows differently, please let us know!  Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by adi_picker » 12 May 2018 2:03
I also often find disappointment with those 'high-tech' type euro locks GGL, lots of elements that often are either passive, or are a very minor impediment, more a patent extension or a marketing gimmick than an actual security element. All flash and no cash! Mauer GM Redline, both sides.   Thanks to GGL for the above lock, forever keeping me amused! To keep the overall footprint of the lock within that of the constraints of the Euro cyl format while still having its massive key, the plugs on either side are mismatched in depth, with one side being about 2/3rds of the overall, and the other 1/3rd. If the key is inserted into the longer plug, it only engages and operates the pins and plug of that side. If inserted into the shorter plug however, the key actually extends through the cam and into the far side plug, engaging pins in both plugs and rotating them simultaneously. I found a good article / teardown of this lock here, translated from Russian to English. Originally when I got this lock I thought the long key and the dual rotating plug would serve some purpose as to deadlocking or something, but after picking it, my guess is the long key is purely a marketing / security gimmick, as it seems to serve no other function in the locks operation, other than to be super long. Does anyone have any more information on the purpose of these long keys in European locks? I have noticed that LOB and others also make standard inline pin tumblers in a similar configuration. adi_picker
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by mattc » 13 May 2018 17:36
Just picked up an inexpensive store-brand padlock, that's reminding me how little tension you need to put on a lock with security pins when you're raking it. I need to go back to basics!
[One day, I'm going to apply for the Advanced section, just to see if I get accepted....]
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by adi_picker » 14 May 2018 7:08
Sargent KESO This is simply a tough lock to SPP. I have in the past raked this lock with a Bogota, and had always found it easy to open in that manner, but being as I would like to try to SPP and hopefully get a better feel for some of my simpler KABA's, I thought this would be a good place to start, seeing as it's supposedly a rebrand, or copy of a KABA Gemini for the states. I have gutted this lock in the past, and I can attest that it contains enough little design details that I also see on other KABAs I have opened that I believe this is true. I made the above pick for it and another model, and find it works great, allowing me to pick from the bottom of the keyway, and reach to the pins on the top left and right without any trouble. The tough part in these for me was that the pins were very very easy to overset. You can apply as much tension as you like to this lock, but because the tolerances are so tight inside, you can only barely set a pin, and if you apply too much pressure, even a little bit, that pin is going to continue over the shearline and into the barrel. This is a great lock! adi_picker
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by GWiens2001 » 14 May 2018 10:22
Very nice work, adi. They are not an easy lock to open. Never tried to rake it with a Bogota.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by jeffmoss26 » 15 May 2018 17:23
found this Corbin LFIC at work and managed to pick it to control!  
"I tried smoking a blank once. I was never able to keep the tip lit long enough to inhale." - ltdbjd
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by GWiens2001 » 15 May 2018 20:02
Glove box on a Jaguar.  Then keyed it to match the rest of the car. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by stratmando » 16 May 2018 8:28
Yesterday I Dumpster dove for a Davit Control box, Had 2 Contactors, Transformer, Receiver, Complete Nice working Unit, also had an Ace Tubular Lock, and Also had removed another tubular lock from a shutter destroyed from the Hurricane, Got home, WD40'd them, Picked them several times, each direction. Then Just couldn't get it, was because of the physical stop. Lesson Learned was If Impossible to pick one direction, try the other, Maybe 5 minutes each way til picked seems like a good Strategy, I have a 4 Tubular Picks somewhere around here, Still buried since Hurricane. I Ordered the KLOM Key Cutter for $46 dollars free shipping, can't justify the $400 Herty I think I would rather have. Anyone know what the pin numbers are from the Distance from the Face of the lock to the picked pin. Or should I Measure from the back of the cylinder(next to the Pins) and determine the difference of the 2? Hope it makes sense. Like any input from more Experienced, Thanks Also, I have no Idea why this post is so wide. seen it happen different times. How can I shrink so a reader doesn't have to scroll across the page. Thanks again.
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by stratmando » 16 May 2018 8:40
GWiens2001 wrote:Glove box on a Jaguar.  Then keyed it to match the rest of the car. Gordon
Nice work, I have a Tibbe tool, doesn't seem as nice at that. Can't wait to get a chance to use it, Likely have to check ebay again, I think I have seen for about $15 cylinder with keys.
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stratmando
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by GWiens2001 » 16 May 2018 21:00
Thanks, Stratmando. Still want to get the 8-disc Jaguar pick when the funds free up. Luckily, this was a newer Jaguar that uses the 6 disc Tibbe locks like the Fords.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by greengrowlocks » 22 May 2018 0:45
Thanks to adi for sending me this beautiful Lockwood Mt5 padlock. I took some time today and picked each variant. Ikon R10, Lockwood MT5 and MT5  
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by GWiens2001 » 22 May 2018 17:47
Nice picking, GGL.  Do you find the sliders tend to bind before the outer pins, or the other way around. Only picked one, and on mine, had to pick the outer pins, then the sliders, then finish off with the inner pins. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by greengrowlocks » 22 May 2018 18:00
Thanks Gordon, Of the MT5 type locks I've picked (I think 4 total) the most common order has been interactive element, outer pins, sliders and then inner pins. The R10 was the only one I've opened that wasn't like that. The R10 went sliders, outer pins, interactive element, outer pins again and then inner pins.
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by greengrowlocks » 22 May 2018 21:34
I been trying this technique for awhile and have attempted it on three different locks. For some reason it worked just now. I used two rows of small magnets attached to a toothpick via heat shrink. I jiggled the magnetic toothpick before picking the pins and than insert it again after each individual pin was set. I can feel the magnets in the lock move when the tooth pick is inserted but the lock gives no indication when they are set. Miracle Magnetic  Magnetic Toothpick Jiggler and key 
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