Forgot how to dial the combination on that old safe? Think you got the right numbers but the handle is stuck? What safe should you buy? Ask your safe questions here!
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by Sleutelboertje » 13 Nov 2018 13:03
Today was a good day.... I bought a small floor safe and the seller did not know what brand it was. It was 70 dollar so I bought it unseen. (Small picture on the net with no detail) Today I picket it up and on the dial was the name Mosler. (Yesss!!) A small floor safe and I think 3 wheels lock. I don’t have the combination but I will some day Dimensions of the safe are: hight 27,5 inch (70 cm) and 19,6 by 19,6 inch wide and deep. (50cm) -Number on the handle tells me: 1897/ 1898. Is this right? -And does anyone know the type of lock so I read and learn about it? -and: new paintjob or leave it like it is. (I don’t think it is original)      
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by bitbuster » 13 Nov 2018 19:04
You have a thin-wall Mosler. I don't know about the date but someone will chime in that knows. The lock could be 1 of a handful of possibilities but my guess is the Mosler 10 1/2. Turn dial as you try the handle, if it binds then it's a better possibility that it is the 10 1/2.
"I dream of a world where, chickens can cross the road without having their motives questioned". Ralph Waldo Emerson
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by Sleutelboertje » 14 Nov 2018 3:03
bitbuster wrote:You have a thin-wall Mosler. I don't know about the date but someone will chime in that knows. The lock could be 1 of a handful of possibilities but my guess is the Mosler 10 1/2. Turn dial as you try the handle, if it binds then it's a better possibility that it is the 10 1/2.
Thanks! I did what you ask. It does not bind at all. Is the mosler 10 1/2 also a yale production? Thanks for the info.
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by femurat » 14 Nov 2018 5:28
I'm not a native English speaker, but isn't a floor safe one that is meant to be under the floor? I'd call this a freestanding safe, or simply a safe. Anyway, you were very lucky to find this beauty at such a low price! But be warned: Getting it open would be a long and difficult journey. Especially for a newbie. About painting it, if it was original I would have left it untouched. Since somebody already painted it white, you can repaint it without being worried of ruining it. Good luck 
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by MartinHewitt » 14 Nov 2018 6:05
I have heard already "floor safe" for "free-standing safe". Don't know from where this expression comes. I think "free-standing" has less potential for misunderstanding and so I prefer it too.
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by stratmando » 14 Nov 2018 8:45
Some good Manipulators here, they may tell of Some defaults, if the dial binds with bolt pressure, not sure when false gates were introduced, thinking older safe should be easier. If mine I would look at back and bottom for holes. [ADMIN EDIT] Hopefully some will tell you with the dial pack separated, you would then turn and open. Once open, you could determine combo. Good Luck
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by Sleutelboertje » 14 Nov 2018 12:17
So you mean that the housing of te lock, inside op the door is free? Not covered? [ADMIN EDIT] I’am I right? If we can’t talk about this, maybe in pm? Regards Jan
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by GWiens2001 » 14 Nov 2018 17:30
To clarify - while applying turning force to the handle, try to turn the dial. If there is no difference in turning the dial, then it is not a 10 1/2. A 10 1/2 lock dial would become much harder to turn if the handle is being turned.
When you are turning the dial (without turning the handle), does the dial feel a bit rough or “clicky” as if there are gears inside the lock that are not fit very well?
We are asking these questions to help determine the kind of lock used on the safe. I won’t tell you what I suspect until I hear your answer. I don’t want to give you incorrect information.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by MartinHewitt » 14 Nov 2018 17:37
Drilling? Be kind to this poor safe!
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by bitbuster » 14 Nov 2018 23:19
Since you say it did not bind then the 10 and 10 1/2 lock it is not. I have 2 other possibilities.
"I dream of a world where, chickens can cross the road without having their motives questioned". Ralph Waldo Emerson
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by stratmando » 15 Nov 2018 8:05
MartinHewitt wrote:Drilling? Be kind to this poor safe!
[ADMIN EDIT] I have inadvertently called a safe like this a Floor Safe? Even though I know what a real floor saw is?
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by Sleutelboertje » 15 Nov 2018 9:23
Ok, thank you all! I know by asking me your helping me! So thats great.
By turning the handle the dial become NOT harder. So it is not the 10 1/2.
With not turning the handle, the dial is not rough or clicky. What I can hear sounds like a gear wheel but very smooth. And I have reference with a lock with gear and a lock with no gears.
So I would say there are gears in the lock but not rough. The sound with nice small clicks or rattles.
Something else: I can’t hear any contact points in the lock. Maybe that helps also to determine the lock I have.
Thanks a lot for all your input!
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by femurat » 15 Nov 2018 10:56
Please no safe drilling discussion in the open forum, thanks!
femurat - Site Admin
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by 00247 » 15 Nov 2018 21:45
Sleutelboertje wrote:So I would say there are gears in the lock but not rough. The sound with nice small clicks or rattles.
Something else: I can’t hear any contact points in the lock. Maybe that helps also to determine the lock I have. !
The safe seems a little light for one, but perhaps a Mosler/Yale friction fence lock? If so, good luck, your gonna need it. 
You call that a safe? Let me show you a real safe...
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by GWiens2001 » 16 Nov 2018 0:38
Sometimes when they wear, the gear feel becomes stronger. Was not sure how strong the gear feel would be. But it certainly feels like a gear drive friction fence lock. 5B, if I am correct on the model. Bitbuster probably knows the proper model number of the lock.
First, be aware that the dialing directions and the direction you turn the dial to retract the bolt (unlock the safe lock) is the opposite of most other locks.
As for manipulating this lock open, it is much more difficult than the more common safe locks of today. That gear feel is because there really are gears inside the lock. And those gear teeth will make it harder to tell your accurate contact point.
Not going to go into details on manipulating this lock on the open forum as that information is restricted at this time. But I will explain the basics of why you don’t feel contact points. There are contact points, but instead of having contact points in both directions, there is only a contact point when turning in one direction. When the dial is turned the other direction, the fence is lifted away from the curb (wheel pack).
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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