Masterlock locks how many pins any security pins master lock

[Latestplague[]]

Also there's no crunchy in it. It clicks at exact intervals but just a little snappier when set. I wondered why it didn't say 3up or something to indicate a difference between it and a reg. #3 after you're explanation. I laid it off on a mix up in production or that they didn't label them different Except on packaging. Anyhow maybe he'll trade and we can find out.

[Latestplague[]]

Ok guys this took me awhile I have been busy. While growing up my Dad preached a few things over and over to me. #1 don't talk about s%$+ you don't know about. #2 there are no such things as friends (trust nobody) #3 when you're wrong, say you're wrong and learn from it.
Actually I made the last one up cause it sounds good and I was wrong and a man should own it. GWIEN2001 was right about 1 thing. The 1st key pin was very short, I would say almost a wafer. Every pin was standard(just some flattening on the sides and some lateral grooves) which shocked me. Before opening this lock I would have bet $100 that pins 2&3 had grooves,cuts,serrations,SOMETHING. My experience next to a lot and I mean alot of people on this forum is probably like a grain of sand on the beach I know that, there are extremely talented and knowledgeable people here.however I have picked about 100-120 American locks (all 1100 series) some once or twice some 50+ times I even pick em in the dark for practice lol. Iv only picked probably 50 masterlocks most have been #1's the reg and the grey commercial. Some of these I have picked probably atleast 50+ times. The #3s I usually ignore because the 5 or 6 I have picked have been useless. + various others and dead bolts etc.... I know this is long so my point is I would have thought picking all these american brand padlocks with hybrids,spools,and serrated pins vs all the standards in the masterlocks I would be able to tell a serrated set of pins. Pin 2 in this lock took 3 snaps to set, pin 3 took 2. Pin 4 had long pins and was cut low so I barely had to move it. But as I say they picked just like serrated and fooled me. So here I am saying I WAS WRONG. Now for another question to ponder.After picking this thing over and over and letting someone else. Pin 1 did not have to be set for the lock to open(correctly). It would fall into like a false set then with hard tension it would pop over(like a hill) then open. My guess is that the short key pin and driver pin were so low and after a lot of picking the spring may have lost some tension causing the top of the driver to sit near the shear so that it's rotating between top of driver pin and bottom of the spring and the curvature on the top of the driver would explain the hill feeling.

Sorry this was sooo long it shoulda been the easiest lock I ever picked but he had character.

[Latestplague[]]

Ok guys I feel like I'm beating a dead horse but... After I took this #3 apart and found there was nothing special about the pins I put it all back together without really looking I assumed it was the driver pins causing the feeling of serrated pins and it was when I put it together I swapped the drivers around and the lock felt like any regular #3. when I got more time I decided to take it apart again for 2 reasons. 1st to take a better look at the driver pins. #2 I have picked this lock to death the only thing left would be to throw it away or give it away to someone on here (if anyone would want it).
So I decided I would take a second look and while I had it apart I would mod the pins- make them security-resistant-anti pick pins. and take care of the 1st pin not being functional anymore.[image][/image][image][/image] which you can see in the pics you can bypass the first pin so the shearline is rotating above the driver pin leaving both pins in the plug.
So when I had it apart aside from the vertical lines I also found disfigurations for lack of a better word. When I had it apart the 1st time I just thought it was oil or gunk on the pins but after wiping the pins I saw they were like indentions. I have no idea what caused them aside from maybe when the pins were being cut they were crimped by something clamping them for the cut.[image][/image]
[image][/image] I wish I could have done better pics. there are 2 of these in the pic one on each side of the line and the best way I can explain them is like notches you would carve in wood to make tent posts. they are deep enough to catch a pick if you slide it across the pin, and there was a number of them on 2 of them. So what I was feeling was either these or micro burrs that caused the lines in also 2 of the pins or both I don't know? It was never hard to pick just interesting because of the way it felt.
Now hopefully I'm not breaking any rules I don't think I am. Im gonna give this lock to whoever pm's me 1st (if anyone). If someone does as soon as I see I will post here their tag and that the lock is theirs. This way I don't keep getting a thousand pm's. I will then pm that person back to find where I need to send it. I will take care of shipping whatever is the cheapest way. whoever gets it can pick it then throw it in a drawer, garbage, or give it away to another forum member I don't care( it would be nice though if you posted something after you pick it a few times). I modded these pins the best I could they are very small and I did this at work with files. Pin #1 I fabricated a new pin to keep it from doing as already mentioned and its a 4 pin lock so it would be good for a little better than beginner its nothing spectacular, but I don't care who gets it. Also I will send the key it should still work I made the 1st pin in a way that it should.

[Shackle Jackal]

I have been trying to get my master lock 140 to a false set so that i can practice raking to a false set then SPP'ing to finish off the lock. My problem is that I have a master lock 140 that i cant seem to get to false set, when I get to raking I usually open it within and minute or two.

I do have master lock 187xd that i can rake to a false set (I think, i do get a slight rotation) and then SPP. So i guess the question is, is it possible that i have a 140 without any spools pins ? I am still very new to picking, but I have read everything I can get my hands on about false sets and security pins. I Know that the master 140 should have at least one spool in it. right ?

[kwoswalt99-]

What does the key bitting look like?

[Shackle Jackal]

i will try to get a pic of the key up soon , I am currently away from home however. I do not understand how looking at the bitting will let you know if the 140 does or does not have a spool pin. Obviously I have a lot to learn ! Thanks !

[GWiens2001]

If you can rake it open and not get a false set on a Master 140, then you need more tension if you want a false set.

Gordon

[Shackle Jackal]

Thanks, I will adjust my tension.

[Robotnik]

I've read through the entire thread; forgive me if I missed it, but didn't see mention of the Master No. 19. Believe it's Master's largest laminated padlock - 6 pins, no security pins (provided my understanding is correct).

[OrMeanGene]

Thanks, I will adjust my tension.

I let my finger rest on tension wrench bottom keyway. Just light weight of my hand, and i push 1 stroke through and maybe a wiggle. Gets false set fast. I do it on 140 and 150 . I use the hook. Usually dont need the wiggle, just the single stroke handles it.

[Pick180]

I am pretty sure the 911 has security pins.