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DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

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DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby Lelandwelds » 29 Aug 2019 8:46

I am somewhat skeptical of the effectiveness of a couple layers of interior sheetrock. If you read about fire code " drywall systems", they are really focused on resisting fire initiation and not resisting a fully involved structure.

In commercial construction, they put 4" thick 4 lb. rockwool bats against the metal skin of the curtain wall and claim 2 HR fire rating. All the gaps and penetrations must be filled. They are really focused on resisting a full on raging fire.

Has anyone welded an external shell onto an existing safe and filled it with plaster of paris, frit, silica, cement, etc.

Anyone try building a metal lined closet stuffed full of rockwool around a safe?
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Re: DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby billdeserthills » 29 Aug 2019 11:02

I have seen lots of gun safes where the manufacturer will add some drywall inside the door, behind the lock & call it fireproof for 20-45 minutes
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Re: DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby MartinHewitt » 29 Aug 2019 12:46

I also would not trust dry wall to be an effective fire protection, but IMHO there is only one valid reason for doing major modifications to a safe: fun. Every other reason like saving money or so will lead to disappointment. So if you do it for fun: Great! Do some research and build a nice safe extension.
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Re: DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby Lelandwelds » 29 Aug 2019 16:23

MartinHewitt wrote: IMHO there is only one valid reason for doing major modifications to a safe: fun.


My reason is I bought my existing safes before I knew better. Resale interest in used safes is a joke. Two are pretty nice but I know buyers would beat me up comparing with Wal-Mart and Costco pricing.
The thought of moving a safe out to sell and then moving one in to replace isn't attractive.


My wire machine was stolen and I pushed down my workshop. Once I have rebuilt and restocked, I want a plan in place.

A safe extension is the proper name for the add on exterior layers?

Any thoughts on the rockwool stuffed closet built around a safe?
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Re: DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby Raymond » 29 Aug 2019 19:01

Do you have room to go ahead and build a walk in, fire resistant room with a vault door. Then you can bring all your safes in. The room can utilize cinder blocks filled with rebar and concrete, insulated walls and double thick fire resistant drywall paneling.
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Re: DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby skygear » 29 Aug 2019 23:11

Raymond wrote:Do you have room to go ahead and build a walk in, fire resistant room with a vault door. Then you can bring all your safes in. The room can utilize cinder blocks filled with rebar and concrete, insulated walls and double thick fire resistant drywall paneling.



Raymon is on the right path here. Make the room fire rated. Ceilings, walls & floor. Cinderblocks, rebar through them, then poured solid with either fire rated concrete or higher PSI rated concrete. Use a Concrete slab reinforced with rebar for the ceiling like a real vault. Especially if you are already rebuilding. This makes the most sense. Modifying the safes is a fight of diminishing returns. Having a fire rated safe room is a better direction.

Pour the floor if it isn't already done. Do the whole workshop floor. Get a company to do it if you don't want to tackle it.

My buddy wanted to do bunch of projects on his property. Priced out a couple slabs, deck, fire pit, seating, outdoor kitchen, and a sidewalk out to the 2 slabs he was going to make structures on. Decided we could get a Cement mixer, rebar bender/ cutter and do it for way less. Plus own the equipment ofter the fact for additional projects. Took us longer, but we did it. Leveling was easy, delivery of material was too. Ended up finding an older used Skid Steer that needed hydraulic lines replaced on the cheap. So that helped in moving the material. Now he owns a Skid Steer too. So a 3rd slab got poured...
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Re: DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby Lelandwelds » 31 Aug 2019 23:26

Other people IRL have laughed at my 4 " rockwool metal lined closet idea. Are you pulling my leg or really liking the idea? I already have a Bobcat, mixer, and rebar tools. I still like to avoid concrete work if practical.

The wife really hates my safes. Talk of houseplants and wall art somehow degenerates into "big ugly heavy boxes that I can't move". I am considering moving into a purpose built building that is camouflaged as something else.
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Re: DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby skygear » 1 Sep 2019 3:58

Lelandwelds wrote:Other people IRL have laughed at my 4 " rockwool metal lined closet idea. Are you pulling my leg or really liking the idea? I already have a Bobcat, mixer, and rebar tools. I still like to avoid concrete work if practical.

The wife really hates my safes. Talk of houseplants and wall art somehow degenerates into "big ugly heavy boxes that I can't move". I am considering moving into a purpose built building that is camouflaged as something else.



Too bad we aren't closer to each other. You would be my next best friend with all the nice toys! :D


Remember, ultimately this is your baby. You want to donor thing, don't let anyone dissuade you. I think it's a decent idea. Maybe do a fire test on the idea before doing the final build. Space and utilization of space is always my concern having a large family and limited space.
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Re: DIY addition of fire protection to a gun safe

Postby GWiens2001 » 2 Sep 2019 21:28

I do casting some casting of metals, and the foundry I use is one made from a steel bucket lined with three inches of a mixture equal parts Plaster of Paris and Perlite (available at a gardening store or large hardware store) with enough water to bring it to the consistency of thick cement. After the material has dried a week, I coat the inside with clay.

The mixture is cheap and stands up to weeks of use in temperatures of (if aluminum is being melted) 1221 Fahrenheit (660 Celsius) and if brass, 1650 -1720 Fahrenheit (900 - 940 Celsius). That should be sufficient heat resistance, IMHO.

My son and I also tried making Starlite from online formulas, and that had shockingly good heat resistance, but don't know how well it would work if it sat long enough to completely dry out.

Gordon
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