Key stamping techniques/tricks

[demux]

So I've done a little searching on this forum and there are a few discussions around when to stamp keys, and what to stamp on them, but there seems to be little in the way of how to stamp them. Some of the other discussions mention using an arbor press, though most seem to settle on something along the lines of, "Buy a stamp set and hit them with a hammer."

But it seems like there could be more to it than that. What type/size of stamps works best? What type/size hammer? What surface to place the key on? Directly on the workbench, or do you have some sort of "stamping surface" on the bench? How is your workbench made (wood vs metal, framed vs solid, etc)? How hard/often do you hit (e.g. a single hard blow or 2-3 lighter ones, and if the latter how to you keep the stamp from moving)?

So, I'd like to start a thread on key stamping techniques. If you have any tips or tricks you're willing to share, please post them here. In particular, any techniques or tricks to get the best stamp on the key while minimizing wear on the tooling.

Personally, I use a 1/8" stamp set from Young Bros. and a mid weight (I think maybe 22-24 oz) framing hammer. My workbench is wood framed (not solid) with a 1/2" plywood top, though I have a bench vice and typically place the keys on the anvil of the vice to stamp them.

I'm not completely thrilled with my current technique though. It seems to produce stamps that are not quite as deep on the key than others I've seen. Also, it seems somewhat... violent (notwithstanding the fact that I'm using brute force to drive one piece of metal into another). It seems like I have to strike the stamp harder than I would think I'd need to for a relatively soft material like brass or nickel silver. Also, when I stamp keys, I get a relatively hard "tap" kind of sound. I've been in lockshops before where I've heard (though never been in the back to see) them stamping keys and some of them produce a much softer "thud" kind of sound. It also appears they may be stamping right on the bench (or at perhaps a piece of scrap wood on the bench) and using a much lighter hammer (maybe even a ball peen hammer). Though when I've tried to replicate this at home, I end up either getting a very faint stamp or just driving the key bow into my workbench top.

So, anything that anyone's willing to share on key stamping technique, please post.

[MartinHewitt]

If you use a hammer, there is only one correct type of punches, that with the letter size and style you want. Everything is steel, hardened at the tip.

You should use only one blow due to punch shifting. A higher speed hit by a smaller hammer than yours is probably better. I would try something like 5 to 10 oz.

The surface is also important. Steel damages the key bow. I would use something like a solid block of hard wood. The surface should not be springy else much of the blow's energy bends the surface (or table top).

[Raymond]

We use the same Young Brothers 1/8 stamps. I occasionally use 3/32 , 1/4, and 5/16. I use a piece of 1 1/2 thick steel 10 inches square. It is supported to eliminate any bounce on the work bench. If I am worried about the back of the blank being marred, I lay a piece of paper under it.

Yes, one strike only unless you are very careful to align the stamp with the previous strike.

[mastersmith]

2" thick steel stamping block. The same stamps, 1/8" Young Bros. But I use a 3lb drilling hammer. The reason is simple, the weight of the hammer will leave a nice stamp. No hard swings to control and I have never missed and hit my hand with this system. You literally "tap" the blank for a good mark.

[skygear]

I hand stamped for awhile. Didn't like that it wasn't deep either. My friend uses an actual Jewelry engraver, I invested in a HPC SA-7

https://www.jmac.com/HPC_SA_7_p/HPC-SA- ... bgQAvD_BwE


He uses a similar tool to this

https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-27106-PR ... B00JVSZXF4

The HPC TIGERSHARK 2 does it all though...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h17OJmdcDxk

[skygear]

Here is another video on the HPC



Here is an Ilco version of an engraver only for multiple keys. Really depends how much money you want to invest.

[billdeserthills]

I've been stamping keys for many years, in my shop I have an old vise set up & I stamp on it--in my van I often use the tiny anvil portion on my shop vise to stamp keys and I prefer several small taps on my stamps versus bashing them with a big hammer. It isn't hard to re-center a stamp once the key has been struck & if you practice a little you'll find you don't need to spend almost $200 on a tool that keeps the stamps centered.

We don't charge a fee to stamp a few characters onto a key that we cut, so I'm not investing in a newfangled method to mark these keys

[skygear]

I've been stamping keys for many years, in my shop I have an old vise set up & I stamp on it--in my van I often use the tiny anvil portion on my shop vise to stamp keys and I prefer several small taps on my stamps versus bashing them with a big hammer. It isn't hard to re-center a stamp once the key has been struck & if you practice a little you'll find you don't need to spend almost $200 on a tool that keeps the stamps centered.

We don't charge a fee to stamp a few characters onto a key that we cut, so I'm not investing in a newfangled method to mark these keys

I agree to an extent. Depends on the goal of the stamping, engraving, embossing. - TO Me, A value added service and adding my personal contact details for repeat business down the road is my goal. I try to only order my keys with as much real estate on them BLANK. for that purpose.

I get it though. Another piece of equipment that costs money. That All In One Tigershark 2 is really looking better and better. ~$7,500 is still a big pill to swallow.

[Safecrackin Sammy]

Its rare for me to NOT stamp a key with the key code or MK system designation on it.

I have a stamping block I made up years ago that works well. 1 1/2" thick steel probably 6"x10". I drilled a series of pins for the holes in the keys to hook over. Then there is a fast clamp bar that runs the length of the keys to hold them both down and square. The bar is designed to run across the head of the key and give a shelf for the stamps to sit on so that all of the characters are even on the same line. The only thing I have to worry about is spacing. The stamping comes out looking neat and I can stamp eight blanks all at the same time. Its a real time saver.

[skygear]

Its rare for me to NOT stamp a key with the key code or MK system designation on it.

I have a stamping block I made up years ago that works well. 1 1/2" thick steel probably 6"x10". I drilled a series of pins for the holes in the keys to hook over. Then there is a fast clamp bar that runs the length of the keys to hold them both down and square. The bar is designed to run across the head of the key and give a shelf for the stamps to sit on so that all of the characters are even on the same line. The only thing I have to worry about is spacing. The stamping comes out looking neat and I can stamp eight blanks all at the same time. Its a real time saver.

Picture by chance?

Also, are you using a specific Mastering software? I've been using the Instacode version for years.,

[Safecrackin Sammy]

Hopefully these pics are loaded correctly.

The clamp on the right is a welders clamp from HF for five bucks. It pushes the bar down snug over the locating pin which is just a 1/4-20 screw with the head cut off. The extra set of holes for the clamp were from before I found a longer bar.

The bar itself that says Yale on it is from an overhead door stop.. You could use 1/4-3/8 inch thick steel stock if needed. It has the good old grippy mouse pad contact glued on the bottom side to hold the keys in place. You can also use an old leather belt or rubber.

Thumbscrew on the right side of the bar so its adjustable on that side. Washer or two under each side of the bar just to get in the general area of thickness for the key blank.

Two pins for location each key on the block are made out of 8/32 screws with the heads cut off to make set screws. One pin is for the hole in the head of the key, the other is for locating the blank square with the block. You could also use roll pins and cut them off to the proper height once installed.

[cledry]

We use a Numberall 40B with 1/8" characters.

[jeffmoss26]

Our main stamping station is the back of an old safe door. I use a medium sized ballpeen hammer. I also have a steel block from Best for stamping keys and cores that I bought used.

[demux]

I use a medium sized ballpeen hammer.

You happen to know about how heavy? MartinHewitt suggested 5-10oz. I don't have one that small but I borrowed an 8oz from a friend, and while very easy to wield it didn't seem to leave the depth of marking I'd like in the key, especially for larger stamps like "Control", "Do Not Duplicate", etc. It seems to me that something more in the range of 12-16oz might be the sweet spot, where it's heavy enough to pack a punch but also light enough to be swung quickly...

[jeffmoss26]

I can look/weigh it at work in the AM