Locking a Pelican 1750 and IM3220?

[emt1581]

As for a cable/chain. Like I said, I was thinking of that for a separate thread but as I've figured out what lock I'm going with, let's throw it out there for discussion... The two questions I would have is 1) What cable or chain would be a good combination of being saw/bolt cutter resistant and at the same time portable/stored on board and 2) What's the best method of attachment to secure the case to a structure without making it easy to just strong-arm the anchor point on the case?

Braided steel cable is the way to go here in my opinion. It's durable, flexible, and relatively lightweight (read: much easier to store/carry than chain) and can be had in a variety of thicknesses depending on your needs. You'll probably want something at least 1/8" with a safe work load limit of at least a few hundred pounds. You can usually buy it in 50' or 100' reels from your local hardware store, then cut to length as needed with an angle grinder. I like to buy the vinyl coated cable for stuff like this, as it keeps the cable from damaging whatever I secure it to, and keeps whatever I secure it to from damaging the cable. Then just swage a loop in each end (the tools and materials to do this are not as expensive as you might think, and once you have them you'll find yourself using this for all sorts of things). Wrap the cable around something, thread one loop through the other to secure it around that thing, then hook the other loop to the padlock on your case. One trick I've learned, when making the cable I'll throw a big fender washer on it before I swage the loops in, then I'll put the second padlock over the straight part of the cable secured to the second eye hole on the case, with the fender washer between the two. That way even if someone cut the shackle on the padlock holding the loop to the case, the washer and loop itself would still stop the cable from threading out through the second lock. In other words, to remove the case a bad guy would need to compromise both of my padlocks, or the cable itself.

Not following you on the fender washer. I'm not picturing it's placement or utility. Also, how long do you make the cable section? Thanks!

[GWiens2001]

Use a couple of Abloy locks (predecessor of the PL330) with Disklock cores on a Pelican case with some lock tools inside it. Abloy makes a decent lock.

Gordon

[Squelchtone]

Having used Abloy, Medeco, and American Lock padlocks on Pelican rifle cases and on RIGID tool chests, the only annoying part is when you have 2 padlocks, keyed alike, but the mechanism is key retaining so you two of the same key, and you need to constantly have a key in each lock. I'd rather have the ability to unlock both padlocks with 1 key, and then put key away, and when done at the range or working with tools, simply press the shackle down to lock them and not worry about needed a key to lock up. I have also used Sargent & Greenleaf 8088 combination padlocks to lock up a Pelican rifle case.

Squelchtone

[emt1581]

Having used Abloy, Medeco, and American Lock padlocks on Pelican rifle cases and on RIGID tool chests, the only annoying part is when you have 2 padlocks, keyed alike, but the mechanism is key retaining so you two of the same key, and you need to constantly have a key in each lock. I'd rather have the ability to unlock both padlocks with 1 key, and then put key away, and when done at the range or working with tools, simply press the shackle down to lock them and not worry about needed a key to lock up. I have also used Sargent & Greenleaf 8088 combination padlocks to lock up a Pelican rifle case.

Squelchtone

Did not think of that....and already pulled the trigger on two keyed alike Abus 88/40's which are also key-retaining. Not a massive problem, just means the locks need to be locked and stored in the case when not in use or something along those lines.

[demux]

Did not think of that....and already pulled the trigger on two keyed alike Abus 88/40's which are also key-retaining. Not a massive problem, just means the locks need to be locked and stored in the case when not in use or something along those lines.

Some of the Abus locks have a small bar that can be installed or removed from the actuator to change the lock between NRK and NKR. I do not know if the 88 series is among those. My 83 series has it.

[demux]

Not following you on the fender washer. I'm not picturing it's placement or utility. Also, how long do you make the cable section? Thanks!

My goal was to ensure that both padlocks must be opened before the case could be separated from the cable. With a loop in the end of the cable, and a padlock going through that cable loop and also the lock eye on the case, that creates a locked connection between that lock, the cable, and the case. I wanted to do the same thing with the other lock. If you simply ran the section of cable that passes by that lock (the straight section without the swaged loop) through the lock when you fastened it to the second case eye, it might look like you now have two points of locked contact between the cable and case. However if the first lock is opened and the loop disconnected, the loop itself could be pulled out through the shackle of the second lock. The fender washer is installed on the cable before the loops are swaged. The inside diameter of the washer is too small for the looped section of the cable to pass through, and too large to pass through the closed shackle of the second lock. If you ensure the washer is on the "closer to the loop" section of cable when the second lock is secured, it prevents the removal of the cable as described above.

[emt1581]

Not following you on the fender washer. I'm not picturing it's placement or utility. Also, how long do you make the cable section? Thanks!

My goal was to ensure that both padlocks must be opened before the case could be separated from the cable. With a loop in the end of the cable, and a padlock going through that cable loop and also the lock eye on the case, that creates a locked connection between that lock, the cable, and the case. I wanted to do the same thing with the other lock. If you simply ran the section of cable that passes by that lock (the straight section without the swaged loop) through the lock when you fastened it to the second case eye, it might look like you now have two points of locked contact between the cable and case. However if the first lock is opened and the loop disconnected, the loop itself could be pulled out through the shackle of the second lock. The fender washer is installed on the cable before the loops are swaged. The inside diameter of the washer is too small for the looped section of the cable to pass through, and too large to pass through the closed shackle of the second lock. If you ensure the washer is on the "closer to the loop" section of cable when the second lock is secured, it prevents the removal of the cable as described above.

Definitely going to need a pic or even a simple drawing to understand this one.

I can understand that it serves as a way to ensure both locks need to be opened. Just not understanding how you run the cable or different attachment points.

Thanks

[nothumbs]

If you use any padlock that has "decent" security or above, you should be fine as that will move the weak link to other components of the system. I actually use a similar setup for one of my handguns. The case has two locking tabs with metal reinforced holes. I use a couple of American A3200's with cores I've set up myself to be... challenging... to pick. I epoxied the ends of the hinge pins to the top of the case to prevent removal (yes, they're recessed, but as Bill said they're still a potential weak point). Finally I secure the case to my car using a steel cable wrapped around one of my seat mounts and attached to the case with both padlocks. Not completely foolproof, but well beyond the "smash and grab" risk level that most thieves are looking for on automobile jobs...

https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/crescent-hk-porter

I'm not a big fan of using cable for securing things. The bike thieves in my area are big fans of HK Porter, and many bike racks have the remnants of cable based locks scattered about. Guess it depends on crime of opportunity or moderately equipped life of crime.

[emt1581]

If you use any padlock that has "decent" security or above, you should be fine as that will move the weak link to other components of the system. I actually use a similar setup for one of my handguns. The case has two locking tabs with metal reinforced holes. I use a couple of American A3200's with cores I've set up myself to be... challenging... to pick. I epoxied the ends of the hinge pins to the top of the case to prevent removal (yes, they're recessed, but as Bill said they're still a potential weak point). Finally I secure the case to my car using a steel cable wrapped around one of my seat mounts and attached to the case with both padlocks. Not completely foolproof, but well beyond the "smash and grab" risk level that most thieves are looking for on automobile jobs...

https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/crescent-hk-porter

I'm not a big fan of using cable for securing things. The bike thieves in my area are big fans of HK Porter, and many bike racks have the remnants of cable based locks scattered about. Guess it depends on crime of opportunity or moderately equipped life of crime.

So what's the solution then?... specific type of chain, alarm, armed pit-bull with aids sitting next to the case...?

Thanks

[nothumbs]

As with many things, first define the problem you want to solve. If, in this case, it's securing this case to something, decide if it's just securing it to your car, or the more general case of securing to any immobile object. Then consider what level of attack you are securing against. If it's just casual moment of opportunity, a simple blanket over the case might be enough. I've occasionally put things in a diaper bag, which generally no one will break a car window to steal (and the general case of both a locked vehicle and everything out of sight is best). Case in trunk is a good step, adding a mounting point in the trunk and a good hunk of 8mm hardened chain might suffice. But first, define the problem and level of security, and go from there.

A battery powered edge grinder is the tool of choice these days. Much smaller than long bolt cutters.