Review: The Complete Book of Locks and Locksmithing 7th ed

[Jacob Morgan]

The Complete Book of Locks and Locksmithing, 7th Edition, by Bill Phillips, copyright 2017, ISBN 978-1-25-983468-4, 648 pages, 7 1/4" X 9"

This book is the first locksmithing book that a lot of hobbyists first read, myself included. It is fairly comprehensive, and it is published by McGraw-Hill and is therefore marketed to bookstores, libraries, etc., so it is very attainable.

Contents:
1. Lock history
2. Tools
3. Types of locks and keys
4. Warded locks
5. Lever tumbler locks
6. Disc tumbler locks
7. Pin tumbler locks
8. High security locks
9. Masterkeying
10. Smart Locks
11. Buying and selling safes
12. Keyed padlocks
13. Home and business services
14. Lock picking and impressioning
15. Automotive
16. Opening locked cars
17. Forced entry
18. Combination locks
19. Electrical access control
20. Working as a locksmith
21. Key duplication machines

First, some background on the book. In front of me is a 2nd edition (C.A. Roper 1983), a 5th edition (Phillips 2001), and the 7th edition (Phillips 2017). The first couple of editions were written by C.A. Roper. Then Roper and Phillips co-authored. Then later on Phillips was listed as the sole author.

Compared to the 5th edition, the 7th edition does have an improved section on picking and impressioning (but not without issues), but probably beneath nearly everyone on this website. It also has a new chapter on smart locks--a 10 page chapter that gives a paragraph or two description of some smart locks like the Kevo, Haven, Gogi, etc. Basically a description of each unit, and then the instruction sheet for Kevo. What it does not have is a broad discussion of Bluetooth versus wireless ethernet, how it fits into home automation and networking, security concerns, etc. Unless those ten pages are of interest, buy the 5th edition used and save some money.

Regarding the different editions, the main difference between the 5th and 2nd editions was that the 2nd edition had a chapter on the Schlage wafer lock and that the 5th edition had a lot of cut-and-paste vendor instruction sheets added to it along with some now very dated automotive chapters. All the editions have some merit, but if a new person was starting out they would not really be any worse off with the 5th edition, or even the 2nd. The basic fundamentals are all there in the 2nd edition, and most of the 2nd edition survives verbatim in the 5th and 7th editions. Used on Amazon right now, the 7th edition is running in the low $20's used and $38 new. A used 5th edition is $5 and change, and a 2nd edition is far less than that.

The 7th edition is simply is not a good update over the 5th (and presumably 6th) editions. The 5th edition I bought in 2002. I thought it was interesting and comprehensive, but even then, parts of it seemed dated. And all those dated parts are still there in the 7th edition, 16 years later.

Under locksets it goes over Corbin 900 series, Mag Ultra 700 deadbolts, and Schlage G series (22 pages on Schlage G alone). Someone from the other picking site posted photos of the Schlage G here http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/Altashot/slideshow/Schlage%20G%20series because it was so rare he thought others might like to see it. It went out of production in 1981 and Phillips devotes 22 pages on how to install it 36 years later? Is there really that much new-old stock out there somewhere? But there is nothing on Kwikset SmartKey, Schlage SecureKey, or even how to use a Weiser KIK shim.

Under automobiles it does not cover any technology past GM VATS. It goes over AMC cars. On car opening it does not mention long-reach tools that are popular these days and again, the 2017 edition appears to be exactly the same as the 5th edition. The automotive portion is really a joke at this point, unless one only works on twenty to thirty-year old cars.

The picking chapter was improved, better graphics, but it does something a little bizarre. It does not have one word on how to pick security pins, but then it offers a paragraph of advice a piece on how to pick Assa, Primus, and Medeco. Still nothing about picking security pins, but it goes over how to maybe wiggle the Medeco pins so the sidebar will not be a problem.

The whole edition has a lot of dated content: when was the last time someone installed a Dialoc or a Memorilock? It goes over the Alarm Lock Memorilock but not the Alarm Lock Trilogy. It goes over the Simplex 1000, but has no mention of the severe vulnerability that was discovered to exist some time ago (look up Bosnian Bill or one of the DefCon presentations).

For being the complete book of Locksmithing it seems to completely miss door closers and anything much to do with life safety codes, ADA, etc. The chapter on working as a locksmith makes no mention of the option of being a mobile locksmith, and advertising is mainly concerned about hanging a good sign in front of the shop. The year 2017: maybe time to go over websites, dealing with scammers, how to advertise in the era of smart phones, etc?

The book really does not go into cutting keys by code in detail and while it goes over the Framon DBM-1 flat key duplicator (what locksmith does not have one of those in their van?), it does not mention the Framon #2 or the HPC 1200, much less one of the more recent key machines that are driven by tablets that can decode and duplicate keys to factory spec, or automatically originate them by code.

There is no meaningful discussion of interchangeable core locks. It gives a picture of one, but does not really go into enough detail to actually do anything. The high security locks did not change between the 7th and 5th editions: Primus, Kaba dimple locks, and Medeco. Did not see anything about disc detainer locks, Mul-T-Lock, BiLock, etc., in the book.

Where the book does have value is in a fairly comprehensive treatment of the basics: types of locks, how they work, how to rekey them, etc. Basically what was in the 2nd edition from 1983. Or what is in Rathjen's book http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=63676. Phillip's Locksmithing book http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=63687is just about as good in some respects. My personal recommendation for someone new would be to buy an old course binder from Foley-Belsaw or the Locksmithing Institute http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=63725, which might be found on eBay for less than the list price of this book.

The 5th edition is on my shelf and I plan on keeping it, but I am glad that I borrowed the 7th edition from the library instead of paying for one. Bottom line, if you want the basics in one book then get The Complete Book of Locks and Locksmithing, but get the cheapest one you can find and do not worry about which edition it is.

[Ralph_Goodman]

I am glad that they have introduced a section on smart locks because there is a lot of interest and installation requests for that stuff now. I just wonder about the relevancy of the chapters because of how quickly the market for these devices is changing. A lot of new products are being announced. Some interesting designs are being experimented with. But a lot are not available yet, and even more fail very quickly.

Also, when you say it has a section on locks like the Haven and Gogi: do you mean because they are smart locks, or that it has a section that mentions those locks by name? I would assume the former because Gogi is defunct and the Haven is still preorder only.

And did they remove anything that you noticed? Anything important? I know you say that "And all those dated parts are still there in the 7th edition, 16 years later ". But was anything removed?

I ask just so I know whether to caution people away or tell them that it is not worth the money for the small updates. Essentially, do the updates take away anything important?

Great review! Thanks so much.

[Jacob Morgan]

Smart Locks (in 7th ed) includes the following: August, Danalock V2, Friday, Goji, Haven (a wedge type lock at the bottom of a door), Kevo touch-to-open 2nd gen, Kevo convert, Lockitron Bolt, Schlage Smart Sense, Seasame, and the Yale Real Living deadbolt. By includes, that means one or two paragraphs that look like they are mainly summaries of vendor literature. One could find more information by checking out vendor websites. To keep appraised of new developments, the Locksmith Ledger on-line has press releases about new locks, for example, http://www.locksmithledger.com/press_release/12230934/mul-t-lockr-to-launch-innovative-and-smart-entrtm-and-smartairtm-at-aloa-2016 (free to register for the site).

This site also has posts from time to about "smart" locks, for example http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=63226&p=471326#p471326 or http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=63485 . And the locksmiths here tend to give their unvarnished opinions--they do not just repeat what the vendor literature said.

The 5th edition had a chapter on detention locks and hardware, auxiliary door locks (night latches), and office locks (file cabinets and such)--those chapters are not in the 7th edition. The 7th edition has more pages, but I don't know where they are coming from--maybe from some space and depth charts that were added to the appendix.

The smart lock chapter in the 7th edition is not very useful, so, if anything the 5th edition has more content then the 7th edition. Just buy the 5th edition (for under $10 with shipping used from Amazon) and put the savings towards some practice locks, or if you just want the fundamentals buy an even earlier edition and buy some nice Peterson picks with the savings.

[Peter Martin]

I am reading through this book and am NOT favorably impressed at all. It seems like it was put together by someone without an in-depth knowledge of basic locking mechanisms or the ability to describe what the functions of various parts are.
...and I'm only on Chapter 6.

The recommendation to use graphite (in 2017) makes me think that nobody has reality checked this work for a great number of years. The chapter on warded locks is very cursory, and Phillips uses the word "pin" instead of "post" when describing an old keymaking technique using aluminum sheet wrapping. That there are normally at least one, and possibly 3, levers which need to be lifted to throw the bolt is not discussed at all. If he had copied the ILCO page from their key catalog describing Bit and Barrel keys, it would have been shorter, more complete, and simpler. He skips "Barrel" keys altogether, despite their continued common use in furniture.

The chapter on disc locks is equally poor. Immediately, it begins with an incorrect illustration--where Phillips describes that the disc tumblers alternate their hooks (so the springs are on opposing side of the plug). However his illustration shows the discs alternating with hooks inverted up and down. The hand drawn illustrations are also out of proportion--which bothers me as I glance through the book.
The single paragraph on disassembly of disc locks fails to state that many locks use a 6th wafer (or the deepest wafer) as a retaining wafer which rides in a slot... and picking the plug and then pulling down on the retaining wafer allows the plug to be removed. His illustration are from Dominion Lock Company, and have a cluttered appearance because the parts include a multitude of meaningless measurements (imperial and metric) which are not useful for learning the basics.
The paragraphs on "reading" wafers is adequate, but his description and illustration of wafers depths and corresponding cuts on the key should have come earlier in the chapter--it would help beginners understand the function of the lock and demonstrate discs being aligned at the shear line. Not a single sentence on common malfunctions--what to do when a lock is worn and a key can be pulled when turned, or when the core is hard to turn, etc., or how to replace wafers using a wafer tumbler kit. With all the illustrations, Phillips might have included a few images of keys to show the spacing and depth of some common manufacturers.
It seems like all this information would have been available in 2017... or even 2000.

I may be overcritical, but I think this book has some significant shortfalls. I can't wait to read his chapters on pin tumbler locks... because so far, it has little to recommend it.

Pete
Sioux Falls, SD

[nothumbs]

I've got the 6th edition, and yes, as an amateur I purchased it for basic info. Read it once, it has lived on the shelf ever since next to my copy of First Officer's Understanding of Tactics, purchased for the DE info.

[billdeserthills]

I don't know what you have against graphite, I use it everyday

[GWiens2001]

Bill, you have two things going for you with graphite. First, you know how to properly use it. Second, you live in the desert.

Pete, opposing sides of the plug can indicate the springs/tumblers are loaded flipped horizontally, with tumblers loaded from the same side of the plug but springs on left versus right side of the chamber as you believe, or that they can be turned vertically being loaded from opposite sides of the plug (top and bottom) Both are opposites, or opposing.

Yes, Bill Phillips does not proof read as thoroughly as he should, and he does a lot of copying from other manuals. But a beginner can still learn some stuff from his books. (Even if some of it is incorrect).

Gordon

[Safecrackin Sammy]

I have a copy from the 70's/80's around here somewhere.

It reminded me as "Author writes book on Locksmithing" versus " Locksmith authors book" Lots of ' Yeah this stuff is some good filler put it in there" so there are a lot of borrows from mfgs material etc.

Keep in mind when this was first written, there was no internet so people got all their info from books....

And if it were a "Complete" book it would be a lot bigger..

[Jacob Morgan]

Roper wrote the first editions, which were much smaller and without much filler. Later Phillips took over, and to justify a new edition he would add a little bit of meat and then copy and paste a lot of vendor material, or material in general. The book more than doubled (and may have tripped) in size over time. He outdid himself in one of his books (published in the 2000's) where he copied and pasted a key to electrical schematic symbols...it had the symbols for triode vacuum tubes, dipole antennas, etc. The dude lifted it from some old book on amateur radio.

When is the last time a locksmith has come across vacuum tubes when troubleshooting access control systems, or anything else?

[GWiens2001]

Roper wrote the first editions, which were much smaller and without much filler. Later Phillips took over, and to justify a new edition he would add a little bit of meat and then copy and paste a lot of vendor material, or material in general. The book more than doubled (and may have tripped) in size over time. He outdid himself in one of his books (published in the 2000's) where he copied and pasted a key to electrical schematic symbols...it had the symbols for triode vacuum tubes, dipole antennas, etc. The dude lifted it from some old book on amateur radio.

When is the last time a locksmith has come across vacuum tubes when troubleshooting access control systems, or anything else?

Maybe somebody put a lock onto their old shortwave broadcast radio?

Gordon

[Peter Martin]

I just finished Chapter 7: "Pin Tumbler Locks".

Again, there is little to recommend this book because this chapter--probably the most important chapter of entire book--is missing so much critical information, but is cluttered with meaningless illustrations.

Mr. Phillips discusses the parts and types of the pin tumbler locks and gets through the functions without any real problems. He discusses three specific parts: the plug, pins, and tailpieces/cams. The pins are all important... but what is missing is any mention of spacing and depths. In fact, it's only mentioned in the chapter on masterkeying--and then the reference is even more confusing. A simple illustration and discussion that as the key cut gets deeper, the corresponding key pins are required to get longer to create a shear line. It's a central concept which is left for the reader to puzzle out for himself.

There are paragraphs on Disassembly and Assembly. Written in a time when Kwikset, Weiser, and Schlage were commonplace, there is no mention of any specific dissassembly of the locksets. The sentences are cursory discussion of the steps to taking the plug apart. I can't fault any of these sentences because they are adequate. But if a person has a Weiser or Schlage with a cylinder cap and pin that must be depressed, there's no mention of this. This is the one section where illustrations, even from manufacturers, would be a great benefit. But Mr. Phillips missed the opportunity.

No mention of troubleshooting or inspecting parts for wear.
No mention of rekeying--again pin lengths and key cuts were skipped entirely--the primary reason for disassembly in the first place.
No mention of checking the spring tension or removing master pins when checking the drivers.

There is a mention of Kwikset and Schlage, but only to discuss some of the products they sell. A better use of space would have been an introduction of the Grades and Finishes available to make a selection of locksets.

Mr. Phillips does include a few sentences regarding cylinder keys--but some of the statements are nonsensical: "The height of the blade sometimes indicates the depths of the cuts in a series; generally, the higher the blade, the deeper the cuts." (page 117) I still can't figure that out.

I can't recommend this book to anyone--beginner or hobbyist. This book should have been thoroughly edited prior to publication. As it is, I think this book is a wasted effort.

Pete
Sioux Falls, SD

[Valentin555]

Do you have similar books to recommend for newbies ?

Thank you.

Valentin

[Jacob Morgan]

A used course binder from Foley-Belsaw or the Locksmithing Institute on eBay might be your best bet--they go over the basics. For some reason, people have been listing the Foley-Belsaw binders for a lot of money as of late so make sure and look up the Locksmithing Institute course as well.

Along with that, would suggest going to junk stores and collect an assortment of used locks. Whatever you can find cheap. Without keys is fine. Dead bolts, door knobs, levers, mortise locks, skeleton key locks, disc locks, etc. Take them apart, put them back together, and figure out how they work. Later get a pinning kit for the most common lock you have (probably Schlage or Kwikset) and you can re-key them. You can also pick them and try impressioning. If you get a key machine that can cut by code, or you have a machine and space and depth keys, you can try cutting keys by code for the locks after you repined them, and try master keying as well. Install them on some scrap boards to practice installing them on doors. When you can afford it, get an S&G or LaGard combination lock and figure out how it works, how to change combinations, etc. Book learning is good, but hour for hour you might get a lot more out of hands-on experience. You can also download a vast amount of vendor materials. Old locksmithing books were often mostly compilations of reprints of what everyone can download these days from manufacturer web sites for free. Not saying that knowing all that would make you a locksmith, but might make you someone a locksmith might think about hiring on as an apprentice.

[Valentin555]

Thank you very much Jacob !

[Servalite6354]

I just borrowed this from my local library. I have the 6th edition.

One interesting difference is now the "certification" exam from IAHSSP (International Association of Home Safety and Security Professionals) does not ask for a $50 fee (as it does in the 6th ed.) for the RPL (Registered Professional Locksmith) - the book says readers are eligible to receive the "certificate" by completing the test and including some very basic "evidence" of locksmithing cred - like an invoice from a locksmith supply company or yellow pages invoice.

I have never been able to find any information on IAHSSP - is it even a thing?