2 safes, 2 manufacturers, 2 50 dials

[Fabreezai]

Hello guys/ gals
Have always been intrigued by locks in general. Today I was gifted 2 safes from a collection, and would like to try my hand at manipulating them open. Spent some time using the search button reading through as much as i can about it. Found links to some excellent videos and info on the subject. I hope I attached pictures correctly of them. Using some of my new found knowledge (and google) I have figured out 1 is a Victor safe labeled “the queen”, the other is a Meilink. Both have 50 dials, one has a handle, one does not, no known combinations. Any input on which safe I should start on, would one be easier than the other, any tips, maybe pics of actual mechanisms? (I’m a very visual guy)

[MartinHewitt]

Hi! I see you brought some fun home. The Meilink has a Meilink Special lock that should have only two wheels. It should be rather beginner friendly. Most manipulation tutorials cover this type of lock as it is working very similar to the modern Group 2 locks. There are a few series on yt and also some books online. The main difference is that the lever does not have a spring, but is falling down by gravity only. If it was greased badly decades ago the lever may be stuck and slabs with a rubber mallet may be necessary if there are no contact points.

The second safe does not have a 50 number, but a 60 number dial. I have doubts that it is a Victor. Early Victors can have dials without "ears" and with 60 numbers, but the hinges look very un-Victor-like. My guess is, that it will not differ that much from the Meilink.

[Fabreezai]

Thanks for the reply-
you are correct, the smaller safe does have a 60 dial! my apologies for the wrong descriptions. I should mention that the whole dial and trim around it are loose and can be moved easily, by hand, about 2-3mm in multiple directions, as if the entire mech is not totally screwed in. ill try to upload a video of this.

As for the Meilink, being that it’s a function of gravity for it to operate, the dial on this one does not spin as freely as the other. is there a way to loosen it with pb blast/wd40 type oil? or is it an advatage to feel where the left and right points of gate might be, then oil it?

thanks!

[MartinHewitt]

If the dial ring is loose then you should fix it to the safe with e.g. tape before you start working on it.

"not as freally" may mean it is perfectly fine or it is stuck from solidified grease and dirt. When you make a video please also from this lock.

[Fabreezai]

Thanks again for the reply!
will have to take/upload video later today.
Secure small safe trim ring, Ive got some gaff tape to do so. The fact that the hinges are different on it, does that make it just a safe made to look like a old Victor? There are numbers on the dial, but I understand that they dont mean much, from my search readings.

the Meilink, ill do my best to show what im attempting to describe when I say “as freely”. I appreciate all your input/advice on my new found endeavors!

[MartinHewitt]

The number on the dial is probably a serial number. There have been so many manufacturers and so many info has been lost because it was not documented, carelessly thrown away or burned in a fire. So information on the standard safes of major manufacturers is usually available on some level, but otherwise it is scarce. I think from the old US manufacturers only Mosler can be dated from the serial, all the other 50 manufacturers not.

[bitbuster]

https://imgur.com/a/0egh6

[Fabreezai]

thanks for picture, I do notice subtle differences between the safe in the picture and my safe. The main one being my safe looks way smaller is 16 1/2 inches tall 10 inches wide and 13 inches deep (with wheels), the door itself is only 7 1/2 x 11“.

Apparently i cannot upload videos like i do photo images? is there another sticky ive missed on how to do so?

Till i figure that out, i did notice while making video on the small safe dial trim that its pretty beat up, maybe why its loose? also on the Meilink, i noticed that the dial turns easier than yesterday. The safe was outside in freezing temperatures on trailer for 5+ hours and now its been inside for more than 24 hours, could this cause those type of symptoms?

[Kaesekopf]

I find it easier to manipulate a warm safe than a cold one, partly because of the grease being less stiff, partly because it’s easier to manipulate when I have feeling in my fingers

[Fabreezai]

thanks again for all the replies and pics!

Had to get grandkid to help me, says this should work for the videos:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rj737yk0 ... 54clr&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/4hsc5pqs ... eovkd&dl=0

Kindly let me know if it does not work, need a better video, etc.
I really appreciate all the advice and help from this forum!

[bitbuster]

https://imgur.com/a/DMRkLQb

[MartinHewitt]

The Queen looks fine besides the shifting dial ring. Comparing her to bitbuster's Victor it might very well be a Victor.

The Meilink looks indeed stiff. If you turn the dial a few times in one direction and then reverse direction, is it at the first turn already stiff? This first turn's stiffness is cause mainly by the dial. The build-up after the first turn are the wheels. You won't be able to reach them with any lubing and cleaning before you got open the door unless you submerge the whole safe in WD40. Feeling contact points will be at this first turn. If this is ok, then it is fine. If it is stiff there too, then you could try some WD40 or play with the dial, because perhaps it may loosen up.

[Fabreezai]

The dial is loose when turning in opposite direction after several turns in another. There is a distinct spot between 22 and 26 that seems to be there regardless of what direction i turn the dial. so far here is what Im “feeling” so far, with the dial starting at 0/50:
4 turns left back to 0
RT contact at 22(can turn left and contact at 26) I can go between 22 and 26 with contact at each number consistently. Continue right and contact at 1.

then tried the opposite:
starting at 0/50:
4 turns right to back to 0
LT contact at 26(can turn right and contact at 22) can go between 26 and 22 with contact at each number consistently. continue left and contact at 49.

since the 22-26 numbers are the same in either direction im going to assume this is where the left and right contact area on the drive cam?

since the dial numbers are left to right, that the first turn will be to the left as well?
so LRL-321 or LRLR-4321 with the last turn to actuate lock?

[MartinHewitt]

Sounds like to got the contact points. How many wheels does it have? That is somewhat important. With 3 wheels it is most likely like a modern lock. 4L-3R-2L-R to open. With 2 wheels it would be only 3R-2L-R to open.

[Fabreezai]

Hi! I see you brought some fun home. The Meilink has a Meilink Special lock that should have only two wheels. It should be rather beginner friendly. Most manipulation tutorials cover this type of lock as it is working very similar to the modern Group 2 locks. There are a few series on yt and also some books online. The main difference is that the lever does not have a spring, but is falling down by gravity only. If it was greased badly decades ago the lever may be stuck and slabs with a rubber mallet may be necessary if there are no contact points.

The second safe does not have a 50 number, but a 60 number dial. I have doubts that it is a Victor. Early Victors can have dials without "ears" and with 60 numbers, but the hinges look very un-Victor-like. My guess is, that it will not differ that much from the Meilink.

Im assuming it only has 2 wheels, going along with what you mentioned in your first reply. Maybe i should do a little more research on this “special” Meilink lock mech, search some more posts on how to figure out how many wheels. stay tuned….