by raimundo » 2 Jan 2005 9:57
commercial hook picks are the choice of those who 'set' individual pins and they come in variations of height, curve and tip. Common tips are either rounded, or flat top, other tips are the seldom seen tapered to a point, and the forward slope tip. The round tip is good for getting under the pin and meeting its point or the cam surfaces that are around the point. The flat top is intended to always meet the point, but with the square corners of this flat top, you must consider the marks it will make on the pin tip and also on the sides of the pinholes that it works in. Scoring of the sides of the pins and the pin holes could cause a practice lock to become more difficult over time, and not in a way that is really helpful to learning the feel. These sharp corners, as well as the edges of a round tip pick should be sanded. The tapered to a point pick should not be too pointed, it could become jammed where the pin holes and keyway wards come together to make a very complicated shape with a pin driveing down on it. So if you make a tapered point, stop short of any really sharp point and sand it smooth. The hook with the forward slope top will meet the pin point to point or with either its forward or its outward slope against the cam surfaces around the pin point. This is a good feel pick. The slopes come in various radius's from John Falles long curve, to some very small curves. Generally this curve will carry the closer pins when the hook is reaching high under the intended pin. In this way the unintended pin can be 'raked' or a set pin closer to the outside could be 'unset', but not to worry, it will probably reset. One type of hook that is seldom seen does not have a curved radius, but has the 45 degree slope of the key cuts. and sometimes this is made 60 degrees, ensuring that it can be put under one pin and not impinge on the pins closer to the outside. It does not have the problem that the key will have with such a steep slope, because it is thinner and meant to move about up and down in the keyway. You could use a 90 degree angle and it would still work, although it would be difficult to move about in the keyway, still it would assure that the tip is working only one pin. Of course in narrow very warded keyways, it could get stuck. THE HOOK IS THE EASIEST PICK TO MAKE, you simply choose a round file, any chain saw sharpener, will do, and cut a groove in the metal stock near the tip, next, with a flat file, you make curving strokes around the back side of this groove, no vise or grooved bench is necessary for this stroke, you can hold the metal in one hand and the file in the other and do it very quickly, If you chose a very small radius round file, you will want to slope the outer wall of the groove with the flat file before doing this. once this tip is shaped, all that is left is the mass wasting of the metal above the intended pick shaft. It can be done very quickly simply with the metal held in a groove on a wooden bench, using a flat file jewelers style, or you can put it in a vise and file away, you can also do most of the mass wasting with a grinder if you really think this is easier, but to get the final flat top of the shaft, use the flat file. Sanding is always necessary as a last step.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
