Dead Bolt Schlage SC vs. Schlage Keyed-Entry

[HamFisted]

Hi folks. I'm new to this, but I'm eager to learn and wanted to ask what may seem like a terribly obvious question:

"Why are Schlage Dead Bolts easier to pick than the Keyed-Entry locks on the knobs?"

Using a slender set of LAB diamonds or hooks, I am able to easily open the Schlage Dead Bolts. The LAB picks are really quite nimble. However, against the Keyed-Entry lock on the knob, I can't seem to get it open.

I've raked, I've bounced, I've tried to feel for each invidual pin and nothing seems to get it lined up right. I have a theory that the knob jiggles around and disturbs driver pins that I've already set, but I can't really be sure. I don't know what to feel for.

If the jiggly motion of the knob is the problem, how can I compensate for that or neutralize it?

-"HamFisted", the Clusmy Locksmith Apprentice

[CaptHook]

I would say because you have convinced yourself already......
Knobs are no harder, with some you may find yourself holding the knob all the way to one side or the other etc, but the its still just a plug in a shell.
Chuck

[David_Parker]

My main concern with key-in-the-knobs are the tension placement. Using a standard tension wrench, in the bottom of the wards, never seems to provide enough binding 'action' on the back pins. I find that using a standard tulip-shaped tension wrench allows me to control the tension much more.

By only utilizing a standard wrench, the pins in front only seem to be the ones to bind. This is why incorporate the tulip-shaped wrench.

Hope my personal experiences have helped.

-Dave.

[randmguy]

You've sort of answered your own question HamFisted. Yes, KIK locks move around more when you're working on them. If you've put one together you'll understand immediately why all that slop is present. CaptHook's advice is sound, I always try to rest my hand on the top of the knob and use the turning tool at the top of the keyway to keep the knob from moving. I've also seen people who slip a miniature screwdriver along the shaft of the knob to hold it in place.

The other problem you might have to overcome is the tendency of the knob's motion to hamper your ability to feel what's happening with the pins. If you let up on the knob a little the resulting movement can feel just like a spool pin false setting.

In the field residential KIK locks always seem to require a little more care to ensure that you're trying to defeat the cylinder and not just wiggling the whole mechanism. Try picking a Grade 1 or 2 commercial and you'll see just how much slop you have to deal with on residential locks.

For a real adventure in restraint try impressioning an old worn KIK lock. I haven't broken a key in a deadbolt or a mortise cylinder for years but I still snap a few off in residential KIK's because it feels like I have to move the handle end of the vise grips through 6" to get any decent marks.

[HamFisted]

Thanks for the tips, guys! I was able to utilize advice from all three of you.

First, I stepped down in difficulty, choosing a Kwikset Grade 3 Residential KIK. The wards aren't as tight, so it gave me a little more working space. Then, I pinned the knob downward and twisted slightly, like CaptHook suggested. This improved the feel, but the plug still felt loose in the shell as I worked it.

I fashioned my own tulip bulb tension tool out of a stiff bobbypin, and that gave better control. A bit of fumbling and I got lucky; the plug spun around with a springy resistance.

After getting comfortable with the Kwikset, I went back to the Schlage and voila! Popped it open in about 60 seconds on the first attempt. Just to make sure I didn't develop 'muscle memory', I tried other brands (Weslock and Defiant) and found them to be even easier than the Kwikset.

Great advice folks! Thanks again RandmGuy, David and CaptHook!!

-"Hamfisted", Locksmith in Training