by locksmistress » 18 Jan 2005 18:28
L4 has been Corbin's default commercial keyway for the past 10 years or so? Maybe 20? I don't remember when it actually came out. It's like an obverse of the Yale standard with that little paracentric quail feather at the top - only going the other way and with a chunkier bottom.
It's Z class though for sure - 6 steps, 0.28" increment.
I use a CX6A card although I've got a pretty old setup and 'L4' is not one of the keyways listed on my card. I cut a fair bit of Corbin L4 by code though and it works well enough to make money (very few returns).
And you didn't ask, but you have a used HPC and I can't help myself.
The calibration kit is $50.00 USD - I highly recommend it. Learning to calibrate your machine should be pretty high on your list (it isn't that hard without the kit, but you'll need some factory original Best and preferably Schlage keys). Try contacting HPC tech support for help too - they are quite personable and if you are a legitimate owner of an HPC machine you are their customer regardless of where you bought it.
Make sure you're using the correct blade for the card - and make absolutely sure that there are no imperfections in the cutter - if there are any chipped or broken teeth you'll only torque your machine out of whack by trying to use it. Also be certain it's on the machine in the correct direction - older blades may still be good but have some of the label worn off - the label generally faces out.
Don't run your blade into the shoulder stop guide. It hoses up the a $90 cutter post-haste and makes a horrible noise. Make yourself paranoid about it if you have to (unless you have a newer model with the cut-off switch).
Use a little pipe threading oil (3 in 1 will work ok) on the blade when you're cutting - especially if it's dull - but wear an apron, it's messy. It will make a cleaner cut and extend the life of your cutter.
ALWAYS, ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES. Brass is super nasty to get in your eyeball and way worse to get out (they can't use magnets like they do with welders and such who work with steel).
And for sure, congrats. I have a 1200 at work and I'm pretty covetous of the personal HPC. I'd really like to get one for my home shop. They're absolute gems when they're taken care of a bit and they'll cut a good key right up until they are completely shot.
. Thanks Locks that really answered some of my questions. So do you think that I should attempt the first recalibration myself? I have recalibrated duplicators, but not code machines. It seems the spacing as well as the depth is off, not too much, but enough to not have the pin drop into the bitting correctly or deeply enough. I called "Discount Key machines" to find out what a CodeMax would cost and somehow got onto the Blitz. He said that if he was me, he would sell it and get the Ilco Universal II machine because it solves all the problems of the blitz like losing calibration easily and quickly (he was a bit arrogant and I didn't take his blitz bashing to fondly either). He isn’t right is he? I have grown too fond of this machine already and I don’t want to know if it goes out of calibration easily or has other problems. Thanks again.