Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by Redbull83 » 11 Feb 2005 23:42
Ok, here are a few pictures of this mortise cylinder I have.
Ok, my question is can I pick this lock the way it is? Also, what is the little thing on the end used for?
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by mcm757207 » 11 Feb 2005 23:51
Yes you can pick the lock the way it is. The "thing at the end" (the tailpiece) is what retracts the bolt, or in some way unlocks/locks the actual bolt or latch that it is attached to.
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by Redbull83 » 12 Feb 2005 0:33
When I pick the lock, if I wanted to take the actual cylinder out, would I push it through with the tailpiece?
"If you can't spot the sucker in your first half hour at the table, then you're the sucker."
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Redbull83
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by mcm757207 » 12 Feb 2005 0:45
No, you would remove the tailpiece. It would be quite difficult to use a plug follower with that thing sticking out the back...
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by vector40 » 12 Feb 2005 0:53
If it's a hollow follower, you could probably just stick it through it  Though the plug probably wouldn't come out unless you removed the tailpiece anyway.
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by Redbull83 » 12 Feb 2005 1:57
I don't think you can see it on the pics, but on the first pic, the silver part of the plug hanging out the back is threaded. Also, I dont have a thing to push the plug through, nor do I have a key. I was thinking that the tailpiece could push it through after screwing the brass part on.
"If you can't spot the sucker in your first half hour at the table, then you're the sucker."
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Redbull83
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by vector40 » 12 Feb 2005 2:18
Well, I can't tell you how to remove the cap, though if it's threaded I assume you can probably unscrew it. But pushing the plug out shouldn't be too tough -- you can use your finger or a screwdriver or whatever, or just pull it with the key. The point of a follower is to keep the top pins and springs from coming out when you do, but any cylindrical object that fits relatively closely should do that job -- you could ever hold them in with your finger, or whatever.
If you don't have a key, you could pick it, or try shimming the pins from the back.
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by mcm757207 » 12 Feb 2005 11:50
You pretty much just have to screw it out, but first you have to push down a little retaining pin that fits into one of the grooves in the retainer thing... but you obviosly now how to do it already because you removed it in the picture. Just a tip, whenever I take those out I take out the spring (the one that is below the retaining pin) too just so I don't drop it somewhere when I'm handling the cylinder.
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by Redbull83 » 12 Feb 2005 15:01
Ok is this the pin you're talking about?
I think it is. But theres a problem, I lost the spring. So can I still do it without the spring?
"If you can't spot the sucker in your first half hour at the table, then you're the sucker."
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Redbull83
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by Misfit » 12 Feb 2005 16:27
yes, you can still remove the cylinder. I'm not sure why you want to remove it, maybe to re-key it? Now that you've lost the spring though, the lock sucks. I'm not exaclty sure, but i would guess that over time the back piece will come off due to use. But, if you're not going to install it, then this shouldn't be a problem. But yes, the lock will still work, and you can remove the cylinder and lose all of the other springs in the lock as well. Shag carpet and springs.....why can't we all just get along?
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by mcm757207 » 12 Feb 2005 17:13
You might as well not use the pin (the end can still screw on), because without the spring it's useless. The lock will still work and fucntion, you just need to make sure the retaining cap thing that screws on doesn't back up and come off.
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by raimundo » 12 Feb 2005 17:34
That little spring is necessary if you are using the lock on an installation. if it got lost under something or in carpet or whatever try a search by dragging your strongest magnet around the places where is might have got into. The pin and spring thing are a very common thing, so all old locks should not be thrown out, but stripped for parts and the parts put in a plastic jar, like the ones vitamins come in, then when you need a pin or spring, you will have some kit to look in. Work on a towel when dissasembling locks, and if you pick that without the screw cap on the back, it might come partially out the front and relock, you can make a follower from a half inch wooden dowel sold in three foot length at the hardware store, or look at some of the plastic pen barrels around. follower is not necessary to take the thing apart if you dont mind parts springing out and heading for the cracks, and you could even reassemble it without a follower, if you are very careful not to dump the pins from the plug while setting in top pins and springs. With a follower, you can start pinning in the middle, and work to the end, then turn it around and do the other end, so it does make life easier. Some day they will probably even make a follower that will simultaneously inject all the springs in one operation, the put in alls the top pins in a second operation after moving the the follower just a little, and they will sell it 'only to registeredcertifiedbranded locksmiths' for eightthousand times the cost of manufacture. Locksmiths are a primitive breed, with tools that have not really gotten into the age of space travel, why should picks not be more mechanical, with hinges to ajust the hook inside the lock under the pin, with nickel titanium memory metal and a little heater to operate it. Nano tech picks would be great. lifting pins and sending back information through the shaft.
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by MrB » 12 Feb 2005 19:43
raimundo you're brilliant! I am going to make a follower that injects all the pins and springs in one go, it would be so much easier than putting them in one by one and sliding the follower along behind. The design is easy now I think about it.
But I feel you would need different followers for each kind of lock. How much variation is there in the pin spacing between different locks? (I know, I know, I could measure locks I have and I could search, but I'm sitting in front of the keyboard now and I don't want to break off mid thread).
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by vector40 » 12 Feb 2005 20:24
You could always make the spacing adjustable.
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by Chucklz » 12 Feb 2005 21:07
I have just such a follower for 6 pin Yale locks. The follower has holes drilled 3/4 the way down through the follower, with a thin slot cut completely through the holes. You can load your pins and springs into the follower, and if the springs poke above the top, use a probe pick to hold everything down, and insert into the lock, and remove the pick. Replace the pick at the bottom and push up. Rotate the follower 90 degrees, remove pick, insert plug.
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