Lock Picking 101 Forum
A community dedicated to the fun and ethical hobby of lock picking.
       

Lock Picking 101 Home
Login
Profile
Members
Forum Rules
Frequent Forum Questions
SEARCH
View New Posts
View Active Topics


Live Chat on Discord
LP101 Forum Chat
Keypicking Forum Chat
Reddit r/lockpicking Chat



Learn How to Pick Locks
FAQs & General Questions
Got Beginner Questions?
Pick-Fu [Intermediate Level]


Ask a Locksmith
This Old Lock
This Old Safe
What Lock Should I Buy?



Hardware
Locks
Lock Patents
Lock Picks
Lock Bumping
Lock Impressioning
Lock Pick Guns, Snappers
European Locks & Picks
The Machine Shop
The Open Source Lock
Handcuffs


Member Spotlight
Member Introductions
Member Lock Collections
Member Social Media


Off Topic
General Chatter
Other Puzzles


Locksmith Business Info
Training & Licensing
Running a Business
Keyways & Key Blanks
Key Machines
Master Keyed Systems
Closers and Crash Bars
Life Safety Compliance
Electronic Locks & Access
Locksmith Supplies
Locksmith Lounge


Buy Sell Trade
Buy - Sell - Trade
It came from Ebay!


Advanced Topics
Membership Information
Special Access Required:
High Security Locks
Vending Locks
Advanced Lock Pick Tools
Bypass Techniques
Safes & Safe Locks
Automotive Entry & Tools
Advanced Buy/Sell/Trade


Locksport Groups
Locksport Local
Chapter President's Office
Locksport Board Room
 

American Lock plug question

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

American Lock plug question

Postby lockpicknoob » 17 Dec 2003 0:36

Feel free to slap me if I ask some dumb stuff :)

I have an American Lock series 1205 with the letters "TFH" stamped in the back of it, and 2 little holes (one high on the left, one low on the right). The body is made of aluminum.

My question: How can I pull this plug and get a key made? Or can I just take it to a locksmith and have them make a key?

The shackle has been cut... so I'm thinking that If I can drill the shackle all the way into the body of the lock, I can take a phillips screw to the inside, unscrew it, and the whole lock core assembly should fall out, right?

I hear these locks are pretty hard to pick, so I don't even think I"ll even attempt that route.

If brute force is required, I'll just weld a screw to a slam-hammer, drive it into the plug, and slam-hammer it out.... but I'd rather go about another way.. lol.

Thanks!
lockpicknoob
 
Posts: 4
Joined: 17 Dec 2003 0:30

Postby Varjeal » 17 Dec 2003 10:49

*slap* j/k...:)

The little holes in the body of the lock are for lubrication purposes.

If the toe of the shackle (the part that actually comes out of the body normally) hasn't been removed, here's what ya can do:

1. Flip the lock upside down so that the keyway is facing you. You will notice that there appears to be a plate (shaped like a "8") fastened over the plug with a rivet.

2. Center punch this rivet as precisely as you can in the center.

3. Choose a drill bit the same size as the rivet head, and with a drill (a press and vise would be ideal) Drill into this rivet until the head pops off. Do NOT drill completely through the plate.

4. Remove the plate, and turn the lock over, the cylinder & plate will fall out of the lock. (have a cloth or plate prepared.)

5. With a screwdriver turn the spring loaded brass cam inside and remove the broken/cut shackle piece.

6. With a pair of pliers or needle-nose, remove the brass cam by pulling it straight out.

7. Dump the contents of the lock (a couple of ball bearings, the rest of the shackle, and the retaining screw.

8. If you don't know how, then take the cylinder to your locksmith and either have him/her make a key, rekey the lock, or swap with a cylinder that has keys already, which ever is cheaper, and ask for a new screw and rivet assembly, and a shackle.

9. Assemble your lock.

You may want to check out the price of the lock, if you're not partial to it, it may be cheaper to purchase a new one.

Hope that helps.
*insert witty comment here*
Varjeal
Moderator Emeritus
 
Posts: 2869
Joined: 3 Oct 2003 15:05
Location: Western Canada

Postby lockpicknoob » 17 Dec 2003 13:48

Thanks very much. Now that I'm out of a job :( I'll have plenty of time to make sure I do this right the first time.. lol

CHEERS!
lockpicknoob
 
Posts: 4
Joined: 17 Dec 2003 0:30

Postby lockpicknoob » 17 Dec 2003 15:35

Me again :)

If I wanted to make a key myself like you suggested, would you refer me to the site http://www.gregmiller.net/locks/impress.html ? :)

Would a locksmith / key place have any reason *NOT* to sell me key blanks?

On a side note, what do you think about the locks that require laser cut keys (ie: they look like little dimples on the key and they're double sided)
One in particular is located at this website:

http://www.multlockusa.com/pub/icon_spe ... ocks01.gif
lockpicknoob
 
Posts: 4
Joined: 17 Dec 2003 0:30

Postby Varjeal » 17 Dec 2003 16:16

There's no reason why you couldn't impression that lock, there are other methods of course, but that would work just fine.

Would a locksmith / key place have any reason *NOT* to sell me key blanks?


The short answer is yes. Now, don't get distraught. Another question might be "Do they have a GOOD reason? The answer is, unfortunately, yes and no.

Your best bet would be to try a hardware store unless you are on good terms with a locksmith. You are more likely to be asked probing questions by a locksmith who, regardless of your answer, may determine not to sell you one anyways.

If you go to a hardware store, make sure the blanks you are buying are nickle/brass, and not aluminum. Aluminum keys are usually a dull gray rather than the polished silver color.

The term "Laser-cut" is, in reality, poor terminology. Few, if any, keys are really laser cut. Generally, a glorified milling machine is used make the dimples, or in the case of automotive, those fancy tracks you see that have been cut into the "side" of the keys.

What do I think about them? They have their purposes, and in the right application are effective for both security and key control. However, they are mis-used on vehicles, where the key costs $200+ but it would only take a $2.00 tool to open. I think they're best used on ignitions themselves, but that's my own humble opinion.
*insert witty comment here*
Varjeal
Moderator Emeritus
 
Posts: 2869
Joined: 3 Oct 2003 15:05
Location: Western Canada

Postby lockpicknoob » 17 Dec 2003 18:29

It seems to me as though those 'Mul-t-lock' locks may have a built in flaw -- please correct me if i'm wrong. The general keyway for these mul-t-locks are pretty flat .... it would seem that anyone could take say... a tire iron (with the flat pry end on one side) insert it into the lock, and since you have about 2 foot lever, apply downward force on the lock and just snap all the pins, thus rotating the cylinder.

True, you can't have a mul-t-key cut without that "special card" that you must show the locksmith -- which is great for key control, but if a person is really determined, couldn't they just use this brute force method?
lockpicknoob
 
Posts: 4
Joined: 17 Dec 2003 0:30

Postby Chucklz » 17 Dec 2003 18:37

The MulTLock keyway isnt as wide open as you think. This type of attack isnt exactly practical for many locks at all. It reqires alot more torque than you would imagine.
Chucklz
 
Posts: 3097
Joined: 4 Nov 2003 17:58
Location: Philadelphia

Postby dry132 » 27 Feb 2005 18:35

Regarding laser-cut keys:

Varjeal wrote:What do I think about them? They have their purposes, and in the right application are effective for both security and key control. However, they are mis-used on vehicles, where the key costs $200+ but it would only take a $2.00 tool to open. I think they're best used on ignitions themselves, but that's my own humble opinion.


I own a volkswagen (US model, if that makes a difference) and would like to know how to open it. What is this tool you're talking about? I saw in the h2k2 video an example of opening a laser cut key, but the tool looked pretty expensive (especially with the anticipated markup on lp tools!) I agree that the keys are more of a pain in the ass than anything, plus take up an entire pocket with the giant transponder and rf link.
dry132
 
Posts: 65
Joined: 9 Feb 2005 0:14

Postby vector40 » 27 Feb 2005 20:54

I think he meant using an auto-related bypass, not actually attacking the lock.
vector40
 
Posts: 2335
Joined: 7 Feb 2005 3:12
Location: Santa Cruz, CA

Postby Pickermeapie » 27 Feb 2005 22:39

No no, I think that he was talking about attacking the lock. While it doesn't cost two dollars, you can get one for around $55.

See Here:
http://www.lockmasters.com/download/autopicking.pdf

-pickermeapie
Pickermeapie
 
Posts: 215
Joined: 5 Oct 2004 19:49
Location: United States of America

Postby vector40 » 27 Feb 2005 22:46

"While it doesn't cost two dollars" is the operative phrase there :P
vector40
 
Posts: 2335
Joined: 7 Feb 2005 3:12
Location: Santa Cruz, CA

Postby Pickermeapie » 27 Feb 2005 22:50

Thank you Mr. English teacher! haha
Pickermeapie
 
Posts: 215
Joined: 5 Oct 2004 19:49
Location: United States of America

Postby HeadHunterCEO » 27 Feb 2005 23:36

try this

look down the keyway with a good light source and see if you see steel looking back at you from behid the cylinder

if not

bend the last 1/8 of inch of a paperclip into an L and push it through behind the cylinder and and twist.
Doorologist
HeadHunterCEO
 
Posts: 1262
Joined: 7 Apr 2004 21:10
Location: NY,NY


Return to Locks

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest