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2-in-1 Picks

European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.

2-in-1 Picks

Postby EvoRed » 26 Feb 2005 10:39

I've just broken the leg off an RB 2-in-1 pick. Left sided lock, and the lever lifter leg broke off, which was surprising! Pinky, you may remember me showing you this leg a while ago as it was off centre, so had probably somehow been previously moved, and it finally snapped off earlier...

I've also had a Souber 2-in-1 that had it's talon leg broke off within seconds of using it for the first time, on a right sided lock... A bugger when the talon leg breaks off as you think you've picked the lock when the pick turns and you not only find you haven't, but your pick is broken too!

I'm just interested to know how others are faring with the 2-in-1's. Do you get more use out of them than I do? That's two in a year that's broken now, but to be honest I haven't had to use them that often really so, at £40 or £50 a time I'm sure they should fare better than that. Got to order another now, not going to get it until Tuesday, of which I'm out on warrants, so looks like a two wire day for any non-curtain locks!

I'm also thinking of giving a Souber 7g 2-in-1 another go, even though I vowed never to buy another after the last one lasted seconds which, for £40-odd, I wasn't very happy with. Has anyone had much use from the Souber or does anyone know of an alternative 7g universal?

And before anyone says it, no I don't think I was applying too much pressure to break these legs off, even though Souber blamed me for 'misuse'. :roll:
EvoRed
 
Posts: 669
Joined: 18 Aug 2004 12:38
Location: Swindon, UK

Postby Wallaby » 26 Feb 2005 10:55

been there too, they do break but the RB ones are way better than the Souber. I broke my 7 gauge within a day of getting it .... they arrive way too long as a 7 gauge and I needed it for a 7 lever safe lock so needed to reduce the length by at least half ... i cheated and used the grinder and im sure this weakened it so it broke during use ... my tip is to use the file, take your time and be gentle .. the larger gauges have never given me a problem though ...
Wallaby
 
Posts: 148
Joined: 11 Sep 2004 1:27
Location: United Kingdom

Postby Rockford » 26 Feb 2005 15:04

Same again, had a Souber break on me whilst at the door - but I'd had it for about 6 months, and used it on numerous doors before it broke. No probs with the RB versions. Wouldn't mind an alternative to the Souber universal 7g though.

I used a grinder to take the Universal 7g down, holding the legs in pliers to help support them.

Rockford.....
Rockford
 
Posts: 455
Joined: 27 Mar 2004 17:42
Location: North Derbyshire / South Yorkshire

Postby pinky » 26 Feb 2005 17:16

i use my RB daily and a pick lasts me years , your pick evo looked bent or poorly machined when i saw it.

souber picks last me ages on left and no more than 6 months on right, tip : dont buy souber universal picks, buy souber handed 7 g picks as bolt thrower is much stronger
pinky
 
Posts: 1799
Joined: 3 Jun 2004 12:15
Location: nottingham

Postby haribo » 27 Feb 2005 12:15

i have used my souber for a while now and i am like a bull in a china shop loads of tension and get every one open and its never snapped, sods law though tomorrows the day!
haribo
 
Posts: 101
Joined: 22 Nov 2004 14:09
Location: Kent

Postby EvoRed » 3 Mar 2005 9:18

haribo wrote:i have used my souber for a while now and i am like a bull in a china shop loads of tension and get every one open and its never snapped


How it hasn't I've no idea if you are that heavy handed!

Just got another RB 5g and Souber 7g. The Souber legs are filed down, ready to use. It just looks so flimsy and, after the last one, I'm scared to use it! The quality is poor compared to the RB... Why don't RB do a 7g universal?
EvoRed
 
Posts: 669
Joined: 18 Aug 2004 12:38
Location: Swindon, UK

Postby AUTOLOX » 4 Mar 2005 11:56

EvoRed wrote:
haribo wrote:i

Why don't RB do a 7g universal?





If enough people request one they may start making one :)
AUTOLOX
 
Posts: 81
Joined: 3 Feb 2005 14:11
Location: N/W ENGLAND

Postby AUTOLOX » 4 Mar 2005 12:07

sorry computers gone mad :roll:
AUTOLOX
 
Posts: 81
Joined: 3 Feb 2005 14:11
Location: N/W ENGLAND

Postby Peaky » 7 Mar 2005 8:53

Ther is a design fault in all the ones i have seen,

The bolt thrower is a piece that is brazed on the end of the part where as the lever lifter is just butt brazed/soldered on the edge of the tube,

I modified my broken one so that the lever lifter is brazed/soldered the same as the bolt thrower,

Its not broken again yet,

Its the universal one.

Haribro, everyones idea of tension is differant, i was told to use very little tention on the CB pick but what i thought was little tention would not bind the levers, what i thought to be heavy tension will open locks with ease, if too much tension is applied the levers wont move anyway so i suggest you are putting more or less the correct tension on anyway, stick with waht works.
Peaky
 
Posts: 459
Joined: 24 Oct 2004 10:43
Location: Derbyshire, UK

Postby Rick-the-Pick » 9 Mar 2005 17:51

your probably finding that to much tension is being used on the thrower.
It's so easy to apply vast pressure when concentrating on the lever's!
3 to 5 lb of pressure is plenty although i've seen guys apply 20+ then wonder why they snap!
I'll probably get flamed for this, but if you can solder you can silver solder them back together! It's so so easy!
Buy a gas pen torch for a tenner or so, and go to
http://www.jacrew.net/
He will supply you some silver solder and flux for another £10.
It works out a lot cheaper and it makes you respect your tools more!

As for grinding the two in one's, hold the lifter in vice grip pliers to grind and keep dipping in cold water, especialy when it glow's!
Hope this will help you out chaps!
An open mind can open anything
Rick-the-Pick
 
Posts: 124
Joined: 18 Dec 2004 9:39
Location: East Sussex, Uk

Postby Peaky » 10 Mar 2005 6:15

:? Not entirely sure if you was talking to me about the soldering but i am a fully and very experianced engineer, i silver solder my bits together allways, normal solder will NEVER hold parts strong enough (if at all),

£10 is quite expensive for some flux and silversolder, also the pens are next to useless for silver soldering and can be bought for around £3-5 off the markets.

I might also add that i havent ever broken a 2in 1 but have repaired many for various people, the one i was talking about was given to me broken.
Peaky
 
Posts: 459
Joined: 24 Oct 2004 10:43
Location: Derbyshire, UK

Postby Rick-the-Pick » 10 Mar 2005 13:46

Not directed at you peak's, but the masses in general!
How much do you pay for your silver solder?
I pay about 4.99 for 4 x 12inch lenghs! As for the torch, i've used many and for this delicate work i found the deceint pen torch works very well!
I have a plumber's burner with map gas, but the things murder and wants to set fire to everything in site!
An open mind can open anything
Rick-the-Pick
 
Posts: 124
Joined: 18 Dec 2004 9:39
Location: East Sussex, Uk

Postby Peaky » 11 Mar 2005 7:05

Ive not bought any SS for a bit but i will price it up and get back to you, it might be cheaper for me to send it to you than you buying it locally,

I use MAP gas for gas welding but dont like it for SS,

As a hint I also use argon for mig welding as its a lot cleaner.

I take it that you use the small gauge SS, i normally use the flat which is around 5mm wide and comes in 24" lengths, i can also get the 3-4mm wide stuff as well as the round of various gauges,
Peaky
 
Posts: 459
Joined: 24 Oct 2004 10:43
Location: Derbyshire, UK

Postby acl » 11 Mar 2005 16:36

Peaky you say youre repairing 2 in 1s ,how are they after repair a lot weaker? Only ask because i broke one in an S2 the other day but ive mislaid the bloody broken bit.
Regards Andy
acl
 
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Joined: 22 Oct 2004 18:21
Location: beds

Postby oldlock » 12 Mar 2005 5:18

I do a fair bit of silver soldering, and a well made, close fitted joint is very strong !

Although not a pick the joints in this key I made recently are all silver soldered, although the bit is a mortice & tenon joint.

Image

Paul

PS. The cast key is a typical church sized blank - a touch too small for this job !
oldlock
 
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Location: Adelaide, Australia

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