2-in-1 Picks

by **acl** » 12 Mar 2005 6:09

Paul saw this on the other site recently,lovely job.Brought a replacement the other day but ill see if i can get someone to repair it sometime.Think imust be getting too heavy handed.
Was this key from a church door lock? How long did it take you?Sorry if youve explained this already.
Regards Andy

by **Rockford** » 12 Mar 2005 6:24

Fine set of wards on that lock - any pics of the actual lock ?.

Rockford.....

by **oldlock** » 12 Mar 2005 6:47

The lock itself was nothing much to look at. From a private house (probably a very big house!) in Ireland. I probably spent around 15 hours on that key - maybe more - you tend to loose track of time on projects like that !!

Still, it just goes to show just how strong a silver soldered joint can be.

Paul

by **quicklocks** » 12 Mar 2005 7:10

by **acl** » 12 Mar 2005 7:12

I was wondering if youd get anything like that down under.
Andy

by **oldlock** » 12 Mar 2005 7:16

acl wrote:I was wondering if youd get anything like that down under.
Andy

There is work of this kind, but nothing this big - but then until I did this one I had never seen a key this big !

Thanks for the comments guys, I am going to widen all the door frames in the house tomorrow so I can get my head though them ..... :lol:

Paul

by **Peaky** » 12 Mar 2005 7:20

Yes it looks allright, remember though a too close a fitting joint will be very weak as the silver solder wont flow over the entire surface, silver solder is very very strong when used properly,

When i said you can not get a strong joint with normal solder i was refering to lead solder.

Andy,
I was given a 2in1 that had already been broken, i didnt have the bit so made one the same as the other one ( the lever lifter is just a peg butt soldered on the side of the tube, the bolt thrower is actually a peg that has the tube form as part of it, this then gets soldered on the end of the tube.

I had my camera nicked but a new one is on the way, when it comes i will take a photo and show you what i mean.

by **oldlock** » 12 Mar 2005 7:31

Ahh the capiliary action of various grade & qualities of silver solder - there's a can of worms to open !!

Several points are critical : (IMO)

1 - The metal must be clean & degreased

2 - The flux must be fresh - by which I mean not dried out and remixed

3- Temperature - this is important, too hot is just as bad as not hot enough.

4 - Close fitting - yes as peaky pointed out there must be a gap - but not a big one, as silver solder is not polyfilla.

Practice is important, I have been using SS for around 12 years and I am still caught out from time to time.

Paul

by **Rick-the-Pick** » 12 Mar 2005 9:43

It's a tricky business with the silver solder, it's different every time i use it!

That was a wonderful key, a little project like that can easily take over your life for a few hours!

Peak's, ever tried cutting an inch of the end off the 2 in 1's? put new ends on completely! It save a lot of flapping around trying to join the break!

by **Peaky** » 12 Mar 2005 10:50

With respect Rick, i dont think you are understanding the process, wait until a pic is up but as a note i do not repair any break, indeed with not having the piece that broke off it would be slightly hard to stick it back on,

I make a new part that replaces the original lifter and is a lot stronger as well.

Paul,
I also have been doing it for around 15 years and still gets me as well, i think as you have said the most important thing is to make sure the pieces are spotless and i usually grit blast my bits first if applicable.
:lol:

weve all tried remixing flux once its dry but it never works as good does it.
Capilary action, love it, until you turn your work over and find a little balloon where the solder has run round and set on the bottom :lol:

by **toomush2drink** » 16 Mar 2005 15:00

Ok you guys have got me interested in giving this silver soldering thing a go so i have a butane solder iron on the way but not sure what type of solder and flux i need. Also any other tips would be helpful before i head off into the dark world of soldering.

by **Rick-the-Pick** » 16 Mar 2005 16:15

That's it!
Way to go buddy! You'll soon be making your own 2 in 1's!

Peaky, would you work out a price for the ss and flux. You might end up supplying us all here!

by **oldlock** » 17 Mar 2005 3:29

toomush2drink wrote:Ok you guys have got me interested in giving this silver soldering thing a go so i have a butane solder iron on the way but not sure what type of solder and flux i need. Also any other tips would be helpful before i head off into the dark world of soldering.

You cannot silver solder with a butane soldering iron, they are for cord free soft soldering of electrical connections only.

You need a butane / propane blow torch - like plumbers use and a variety of nozzles are dead handy depending on the size of the piece you are working on. As far as the flux is concerned I use two types, std Borax and Johnson Matthey ' Tenacity ' these are both powders that you mix (a little bit at a time) to a paste.

As for solders don't be tempted to use the stuff with the flux attached, get the clean rod, try and get as high a silver content as you can, either silver-flo or easy-flo from johnson matthey. Try your local welding suppliers for prices etc.

Have fun.

Paul

by **Peaky** » 17 Mar 2005 8:08

I have asked my local supplier to quote me for a job lot of SS so will get back to you all,

I tend to use easyflow solder,

As a quick search i found these,

http://www.cupalloys.com
http://www.collegeengineering.co.uk
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk

All of these are reasonable prices, the chronos site will do bundles for a good price and it may be worth a group buy on the pack of 50,

I say i pay less than you because you are paying for 12" lengths, i get mine in 400-500mm lengths for the same price if not a little cheaper on a bulk buy.[/url]

by **toomush2drink** » 17 Mar 2005 10:26

There is also a load of solder on ebay but as i didnt know what to get i left it.

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