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Access control

European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.

Access control

Postby toomush2drink » 12 Mar 2005 6:16

Does anyone know of any access control courses and also how we stand now that the wiring regulations have changed ?
toomush2drink
 
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Postby oldlock » 12 Mar 2005 6:54

One word for access control

Paxton

It's great stuff, great products, great to fit and not too dear.

I really wish I could still get them ... :cry:

As to the last bit, I am fairly sure that if you get an unswitched fused spur and connect to it and you should have no problems.

Paul
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Postby AUTOLOX » 12 Mar 2005 8:28

if you get in touch with your supplier and tell them you are getting alot of work offered, most of them will gladly show you how to fit their products. if you are not sure about electric, factor in an electrician in the quote.
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Postby toomush2drink » 12 Mar 2005 10:54

Ive no problem with electrics just concerned over then new regs as i dont want to get taken to court after an install. Great idea about the suppliers autolox i understand its only a circuit at the end of the day but like all things sometimes its nice if your shown at least once before attempting it on your own.
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Postby gee252 » 12 Mar 2005 11:25

toomush if your not a qualified sparky apart from fitting a plug there's not much else you can do. cable spurs etc is a big no no.
the trouble is get some one in to do it and they whant a fortune. The best way if time permits and you do a lot of work needing electrical supplys is go for the 16th edition.
lock picking! i luv it
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Postby toomush2drink » 12 Mar 2005 11:37

What im trying to find out is weather i can do the low voltage side of it (12-24 v) and then get a spark to wire it in to the main ?
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Postby Buggs41 » 12 Mar 2005 12:33

Yes, you can do that.

The NEC (National Electrical Code) covers how low voltage wires (<30V) are to be installed.

The main thing that the code addresses is that the work be done in a 'workmanship type manner' (IE. Not jerry rigged). And that the wires are installed in a way that they are protected from physical harm. The wires also have to be supported at proper intervals.

Basically, be smart about running the wires.
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Postby AUTOLOX » 12 Mar 2005 12:38

Are you getting a lot of enquiries? If not forget about it. The competition around here for access control is not worth the bother.
I find if I work for a private home owner or landlord if I tell them I can do the electrics, but as I am not qualified they should get it checked, they are happy to let you do it.
But you must state on the invoice that you have left it to be completed by a qualified spark who will be hired by the client and get them to sign it, then you are in the clear.
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Postby jax666 » 12 Mar 2005 13:58

I use ACT and find it ok the reps are ok as well and help when you ask them. they are based in Dublin but have two reps in the UK.

Paxton kit is Ok as well and they do a one day product awareness course down in Brighton, if you ask, also their brochure is straight forward and easy to do quotes from.

Both are stocked by Eddie's.
jax
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Postby jax666 » 12 Mar 2005 14:04

As for the electrical stuff, you can either use a plug and connect via a socket (you find a lot of systems done like this with the socket in the landlords elec cupboard)

Or do what i did and find a young lad who has just finneshed his apprenticeship and get him to do the wiring as a nixer (on the side) and swallow the few quid he charges.
jax
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Postby Rick-the-Pick » 14 Mar 2005 9:57

Allen,
You've no problem carrying out the electrical side.
The only regulations that came into force earlier in the year is that,
Any electrical alteration or renewal in any wet area's ie, bathroom's or kitchen's must be completed and signed off by an qualified electrician!
You can still wire these area's with no worries, but you need to have a sparky mate who can sign off!
So buddy, you can carry on wiring up your systems just as long as you take your feed through a fused switched spur!
An open mind can open anything
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Postby toomush2drink » 14 Mar 2005 10:06

Thats what i needed to know as i new the rules had changed for diyers on the kitchens. I have a few sparks i can ask to sign it off for a beer but didnt want to go through it all and then find ive broken the law as we do live in a sue society now. :lol:
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Postby kitbearuk » 19 Mar 2005 22:50

I also use ACT, personally I prefer the ACT 2000 Access Control panel as it is so versitile easily upgraded at any time.

I enjoy the ACTwinpro2 software sooooo much, Virtually foolproof for the user and sometimes the installer :lol: .

How many other Access Control panels have an LCD Display and a slimline metal case and keys?.

If You had one demonstrated to You undoubtedly You would want one, Well it depends on taste and budget really, At a mere £550 exc VAT 17.5% their not cheap like cardlock or a surface mounted keypad ie: Bewator K42.
Using this example, Most surface mounted keypads could quite easily be comprimised using a screwdriver (flathead) to rip the housing from the faceplate and then apply a "U" shaped impliment such as a bent paperclip over the relay terminals to bridge the circuit, This of course could not be done with the independant controller positioned elsewhere on the secure side of the door.

If You have one of the cheap keypads You could always connect Your alarm system up to the "Tamper" teminals of Your keypad on the "Tamp" circuit or a NC alarm circuit and then by installing a 12v trigger relay module inside Your panel or a spare AUX programmable Relay, By connecting the "door relay" 12v + supply to the relay inside the alarm panel.
So in theory, when joe burgler removes the keypad from the faceplate; a tamper alarm condition occurs in the alarm panel which activates the bellbox in turn fires the relay module (as they are receiving the same 12v supply) which disconnect's the 12v power supply to the electric release therefore thwarting the attempts of the "EVIL Do'er" :twisted:
in this I mean that joe burgler has left the premises in fear of being caught by onlookers attracted by the sound of the alarm being activated combined with the fact that the door remains secure.

I know what You are all thinking "how do You get in if the alarm is sounding?", Well, You wait 20 minutes until the bell cutout timer expires which release's the relay from NO to NC status; connecting the 12v circuit.

You may also have the added benefit of having an autodialler installed to your alarm to contact You if an alarm event does occur, Chances are You will return to Your property before the bell cutout timer expires!.

Remember to Always have a mechanical lock override on the system, After all, You would'nt want to get locked out would You?! in the event of a full power failure.

Imagine that!

:shock: :x

That could only occur if You connected the relay to the strobe output and had no mechanical backup and had no other way into the property.

Or You could just fit a metal housed keyswitch to override the alarm panel's relay, But You would have to know what to do with all that stuff. :) :) :wink: .

Can You find a Flaw with this configuration?.


happy picking!

Kit Bear
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Postby chubby007 » 27 Apr 2005 13:45

Paxton have a very good coarse, split into 3 sections: Compact, Switch 2 and Net 2. The first 2 are standalone systems and the Net 2 is a PC based system. We had an excellent day on the Net 2 system and all their coarses are FREE. I have fitted Paxton compact range in a nightclub and the customer was very pleased. TWO words of advise, Don't buy the complete system as one unit, buy the components you need seperately, it's much cheaper that way & double check all the components are correct against what you have ordered, NOT Paxtons fault, it's the suppliers! Once you are a registered installer, Paxton e-mail you with updates.
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