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Removing Cylinder

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Removing Cylinder

Postby Wolf2486 » 16 Mar 2005 17:39

I have tried to remove the cylinder from this master lock with no avail. I used a drill to try and drill around the hull hoping the cylinder would just kinda fall out. No luck. I have picture of my already destroyed lock. Any help on how to remove this cylinder (without damaging the locking pins that hold down the shackle or anything that involves releasing the shackle) All I want to do is get the cylinder out, and the housing if necessary. Please understand I do not have access to advanced tools, just a drill, screwdriver, and a hammer. Thank You.

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Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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Postby stick » 16 Mar 2005 18:20

Not all locks are made to be dismantled like that. You may have to just take a dremel to it in hopes of cutting it out.
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Postby master in training » 16 Mar 2005 18:25

if locks arent made to be taken apart, you will have a hell of a job getting the cylinder out, the best thing to use would be some sort of file or a dremel preferably (the only file i have is on a penknife), if the cylinder can be removed, when you open it, there will be a small screw under the shackle that you have to unscrew to get the cylinder out.
Image
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Postby vector40 » 16 Mar 2005 20:16

What exactly is your goal here? Do you want a standalone cylinder to practice with?
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Postby MrB » 16 Mar 2005 20:39

It looks like a brass padlock with a decorative/protective cover on the outside. If it is a brass padlock, the cylinder can't come out. The whole lock is the cylinder.

What you might be able to do is remove the pins and springs and then take out the plug, but doing this is tricky and potentially destructive of the lock. There is a thread somewhere from not long ago that talks about this. See if you can find it by searching for "brass padlock", "cylinder retaining pin", or something like that.
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Postby daedalus » 19 Mar 2005 16:55

You killed the lock. The springs/pins are probably lodged inside the hull, so the most you can get is the pins and the cilinder shell(not very useful on their own though).

Most cheap padlocks are not supposed to be rekeyable. I believe that the only rekeyable Master padlocks are the ProSeries. Check their website.
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Postby Wolf2486 » 19 Mar 2005 18:15

The key surprisingly still works. My goal here is to see how the locking dogs on this padlock work. I couldn't care less about the cylinder. I do realize that the hull IS the lock, but I do not think drilling the pins would open it, thus wouldn't turning the key just open it?
Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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Postby MrB » 19 Mar 2005 22:40

This post of raimundo's may be of value:

viewtopic.php?p=58141&highlight=brass+padlock#58141
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Postby Mad Mick » 19 Mar 2005 23:05

That post-mortem lock actually looks like a #140dlf. I, erm, did a post-mortem of a #140 (naked 140dlf) a while ago...just undress the dlf and the result will be the same.

Look here (10th post down...took a while to find):
viewtopic.php?t=1890&start=0

HTH,
Mick.
Image If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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Postby Mad Mick » 19 Mar 2005 23:17

:oops: After re-reading, I notice you don't have the major tools, but the ones you have will suffice...

Use your normal drill and try to just snag the plugs (which cover the pin stacks). As the drill starts to go through....STOP the drill and pull the plug out.

The 5th one (which secures the plug) may give you a bit of trouble though...the cover plug has to be removed firts, then the securing pin.
Image If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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Postby Wolf2486 » 19 Mar 2005 23:20

Alright I found the holes, can I just take out the fifth one, then turn the key to take the plug right out? Also if I drill the "big" hole, will the locking dogs spring out? I would prefer those to be intact so I can see how they work. Thank you
Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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Postby Mad Mick » 19 Mar 2005 23:52

Yes, you could just remove the fifth plug (and securing pin), then use the key to remove the plug, but remember the drivers and springs will fly out...do this inside a plastic bag to save losing anything.

There's no need to drill the heel/toe locking bolt cover, just open the shackle and tap the cover from inside the toe hole. The bolts will not be able to be removed without the plug being removed first though...

If you wish to re-assemble this lock afterwards, you will still need to remove the plugs on pin-stacks 1 thru 4...
Image If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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Postby Wolf2486 » 20 Mar 2005 12:51

Alright I did everything (including removing the bolts) but the cylinder is not completely out. How do I get it all the way out, it rotates but is stuck?
Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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Postby master in training » 20 Mar 2005 12:58

is any part of the bits you drilled holding it in, maybe a twisted bit of metal?

are you using the key to take out the barrel or are you just pulling it?
Image
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Postby Wolf2486 » 20 Mar 2005 13:02

It's possible. I'm using the key.
Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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