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ERA Euro Profile Cylinder

European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.

ERA Euro Profile Cylinder

Postby insomniac » 2 Mar 2005 0:02

Hello Everyone,

I've just started picking again today after a long time, and it's on a lock fitted in my residence. The lock is a 6 pin ERA Euro Profile Cylinder, I know it has 6 pins because i've examined the key profile. I've been trying to pick it using basic homemade pick's which if i'm honest are'nt really upto the job, but the thing is this.... i've spent a long time trying to pick this lock unsuccessfully, I don't think even one pin managed to bind, I pushed the pick right into the back of the lock and noticed that the back of the lock felt quite springy, it's the part of the lock that the tip of the key meet's, it felt almost like an extra security measure to prevent standard picking, as if the back of the lock had to be depressed during the seating of the pins for them to bind, does that make any sense?
I don't want to take the lock apart because it's in use and I don't want to risk damaging it, i'm normally quite sufficient at picking lock's and this includes locks with modified pins but I could'nt get one pin to bind in this lock at all! HELP!!!!!!
Hope someone can throw some light on the subject, thanks.
Insomniac.
P.S. Not sure if it's relevant, but it's a fairly new lock.
Image
Success is dependant on effort - Sophocles
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Postby Rockford » 2 Mar 2005 4:39

Does the cylinder have a thumbturn on the inside - as this could account for the "springy" feel at the back the keyway.

Rockford.....
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Postby quicklocks » 2 Mar 2005 5:10

8)
Last edited by quicklocks on 30 Jun 2006 6:33, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby cred » 2 Mar 2005 6:11

dont i know it!! :lol:
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Postby insomniac » 2 Mar 2005 9:02

Hello again,

Thanks for your replies so far guy's! :)
Rockford - Yes, the cylinder has a thumb turn on the inside.
quicklocks - Thanks for that info, some further questions...
-Do I need to push this clutch in whilst actually picking the lock or after i've seated the pins?
-Will the pins bind during the picking process if this clutch is'nt pushed in? If not....
-How do I keep this clutch at the back of the lock depressed whilst having a pick in one hand and a tension tool in the other?
-Can it be picked??? :?
cred - You sound like you've experienced problems picking this particular lock!
Thank's for the feed back everyone, you've taught me something new today, look forward to further replies.
insomniac.
Image
Success is dependant on effort - Sophocles
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Postby Rockford » 2 Mar 2005 9:35

Pick the lock first, and the plug will just turn without opening the lock. Once picked, engage the clutch by pushing your pick to the rear of the lock and use this to turn the plug and cam.

The clutch has nothing to do with the lock not picking.

Rockford.....
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Postby quicklocks » 2 Mar 2005 11:24

:D
Last edited by quicklocks on 30 Jun 2006 6:33, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby EvoRed » 2 Mar 2005 12:50

Rockford wrote:Once picked, engage the clutch by pushing your pick to the rear of the lock and use this to turn the plug and cam.


OK on the bench but I find a strong tension wrench in longways is best at the door where the cam can be quite stiff to turn...

Era 6 pins aren't the easiest, they have 4 spool drivers. Quick and easy with the pick gun though. Era 5 pins are an easy pick by hand, so maybe that's where you should start...
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Postby NDEFreak » 21 Mar 2005 4:43

Or maybe you could make a tension tool from a key ( cut away everything - leaving only the bottom part of the broaching - well below the bottom of the pins, leaving enough room for pick insertion - and a small section of the key head with a hole drilled in it to accomodate the end of a standard tension tool. This may serve to push in the drive cam while you apply tension and negate the need for pushing the cam in after you pick it. It is also a good way to produce tension tools for keyways that are a pain to get the average tension tool into. You dont need blanks either, but - obviously, you need keys ( pre-cut etc etc ) that fit the keyway that you can afford to cut down and file.

Hope I was of some help.

When I get my camera back I will post some photos on here.

Power, 999, rapping or bump keys are also good, but practice is needed.
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file a key down first

Postby tri-city » 26 Mar 2005 1:02

i think if you pick it first and once you've picked it you could have a 6 pin era key with all the pins filed right down so that you can get to the thumb turn at the back. go to a key shop, but get a brass key, they're much easier to file. you should have success. :lol: p.s. i think that you probably need some professional picks as well you'll find it much easier. "i think" :P
learning to be a locksmith is like an oblique curve it will never come full circle!!!
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Postby Peaky » 26 Mar 2005 8:20

Wow i didnt realise these were considered good, i only came across one the other day when a lady had lost a key but had the spare but still wanted it changing, when i get replaced locks home i allways have a go at picking them (if i havent allready as part of the job) and when i got this one home i put the rake in and after two scrubs it opened, i can now do it in one scrubb! the lock is new as it was on a new build and doesnt even have any scratches so it went into stock for another day.
Yes im sure it must be an easy combination and yes the key does stand that explanation but it all goes to show that even the better locks can have easy pin combinations.
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