falle pick question

[pick_maker]

That is a great set! Well done!

[lockpickingnewb]

Nice picks DB! would you mind sending me some templates for the falle safe picks?

[raimundo]

the mad mick will be proud of your split tensors.

[lockpickingnewb]

sorry I forgot to say templates for the curve picks. And is the second tention wrench from the top for dust guards on cars?

[digital_blue]

lockpickingnewb: The split tension wrench is used to get tension from the top and bottom and provide a more even turning and, theoretically, more control over your tension. Some versions (like the Falle original ones) also have the flat part perpendicular to the keyway, instead of parallel to leave more room in the keyway for picks. This one is not designed that way, though I'm still working on a couple different options.

As for the templates, I'd be more than happy to send them to you, but you will need to PM me with your email address so I have some place to send them to.

db

[Mad Mick]

the mad mick will be proud of your split tensors.

Indeed! That is a perfect duplicate. What did you use for the whipping DB?

lockpickingnewb: The split tension wrench is used to get tension from the top and bottom and provide a more even turning and, theoretically, more control over your tension. Some versions (like the Falle original ones) also have the flat part perpendicular to the keyway, instead of parallel to leave more room in the keyway for picks. This one is not designed that way, though I'm still working on a couple different options.

The split tension wrench is used exactly as described by DB. The idea being more surface area in contact with the plug will transmit more feedback, and there is less chance of the wrench slipping out of the keyway. Another feature of this, is that there is less chance of the wrench moving and binding upon the shell/hull/housing of the lock. The lower tang can be twisted to more effectively fill the space in the bottom of the keyway. i.e.

|||
|.|
|-| The red bits are the tangs.

I also feel that the below info is important, but doesn't infringe on our policy on actual picking methods of automotive locks publicly:
A split wrench is also useful for holding the dust-cover-flap open on auto locks whilst picking. You have twice the effort upon the flap return spring (which can be considerable on some locks), as opposed to using a conventional wrench, combined with the reduced chance of slippage.

[digital_blue]

Mad Mick... for the whipping... well, let me explain. I've been playing around with a few ideas for a homemade Sputnik (very prelim atm) and went looking around the house for a suitable wire. I suspected that the core wire in a bass guitar string (I play bass, so this was on hand) might be about the right gauge and consistency for the tool, so I took apart an E string. If anyone has ever endeavoured to strip the layers off a bass guitar E string, let me tell you about the hours of fun you're in for.... or maybe I won't tell you and you can use your imagination. Along the way I saved some of the exterior layers of wound wire and this whipping was made from the thinest gauge wire. As it turns out I'm not convinced the core wire is perfectly suited for a homemade Sputnik, but that's the topic of a whole other conversation (and an unfourtunate sore spot due to the effort of getting to the wire - and you guys thought all I do is spend time on this site... ).

db

[digital_blue]

Just another note I should have added about the whipping... I made little notches in both edges of the tool with my dremel to accomodate the whipping and insure that it does not slide around when pressure is applied. Seems to work pretty good. I'll play more with the tool. I think I'd like a few different sizes to accomodate varying keyways.

db

[digital_blue]

The falle deep curve ..... I have made picks of the type, seems to be used as a sort of rocker, fulcruming off the tensionblade and lifting the pins deep in the lock, but it tends to lose that fulcrum property as you work toward the front pins. It works in open keyways, far better than in restricted ones, The sense of feel is maybe a little better in the deep inside pins than you get with a normal hook, and this pick will also lift the pins that are closer to the outside while lifting the pin you intend to work.
I have also experimented with a varient of this pick with a deep curve shaft and a little flip of short curve at the tip. These shapes work well enough, but I don't make them very often, as they are not really so special. If anyone else has a comment on using the deep curve let us know what locks, keyway restrictions, and how it works for the pins nearer the outside where the fulcruming is harder to do.

Hey Ray. I've taken my time in responding to this because I wanted to really get some 'time-in' with these tools to make sure I wasn't just talking outta my lower blow hole. I've spent the last week plus working with the deep curves now, and paying paticular attention to what you were mentioning in your post. I've now used these picks on every lock I can get my hands on to make sure I had a reasonable amount of experience before drawing any conclusions. This is what I've come up with.

Your point about the pins closer to the outside (ie: pins 1 and 2) is valid, though I don't really find this to be all that much an issue. Since the first pin is always set back a ways from the face of the lock (in other words, from shoulder to first cut on the key) it seems to allow ample distance to use the pivoting action against the top of the tensioner. As for upsetting other pins, you would think this to be the case, but I've been working with the deep curves on a schlage 6 pin that I've repinned with extreme high/lows (doesn't even comply with MACS) and although it is trickier in this configuration, I don't think it's any trickier than it is with my standard small hook from SouthOrd. One side note to this is that on this particular lock the pins set from rear to front, so pin 1 is not yet binding at the time I am setting pin 2. I suspect if the opposite were true it might make for a different situation.

Overall, I would say that the deep curves have their moments. They are not my initial preference for all locks. The least extreme of the deep curves seems to work pretty well on padlocks with smaller keyways (as it is actually reasonably close to flat over the short length of those keyways. ). I have found that the progressive curves are probably the picks I will reach for first on most any deadbolt or knobset with a standard keyway (wieser, kwikset, schlage, etc). The more I use these tools, the more adept I get at recognizing early whether I have selected the right pick, and adjusting as needed. I would say these are great tools, and well worth the time I spent on them. There's still a little bit of tweaking needed, but they're pretty close.

Cheers!

db

[tazalaska]

DB...........Beautiful set!

I made my first pick today using an old steak knife. It worked great on a couple of locks I've had around for practice. Thanks for the templates.
My digital camera is on the fritz so I can't post a pick, but even if it worked it would be redundant since your's are posted already.

Good luck to all you 'do it yourself' pickers

[digital_blue]

Naw, it's never redundant. If you get the camera up and going, go ahead and post pics and strut yer stuff a little.

db

[vector40]

Sheez... we really need a forum for the homemade stuff.

[tazalaska]

I'll work on the camera and more picks. Yeah, a forum for homemade stuff would be cool.