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by pip » 21 May 2005 20:59
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is anyone familiar with this ?
how much tension would you need ?
maybe a 28" tension wrench
http://www.maclock.com/#
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by stick » 21 May 2005 21:03
It's probable you may not need large amounts of tension until after the lock is picked and the massive bolt thing is being withdrawn.
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by Romstar » 21 May 2005 21:34
No more tension than it would take to pick any other deadbolt.
I can't imagine that it would take a lot more to draw back the blade either. Unless it were jammed in some way.
Now, for extra credit, can anyone tell me why this locking system might NOT be a good idea for residential use?
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by pip » 21 May 2005 21:43
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how about...
the side of the door where the blade thingy hides
has been weakened because it has been hollowed out
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by digital_blue » 21 May 2005 21:44
Ooh ooh. I say it's because typical housing foundations often shift and cause even a standard deadbolt to stick and become difficult. First thing I thought of when I saw that was "I wonder how that would fair against Manitoba ground frost.
Was that what you were thinking Rom?
db
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by Romstar » 21 May 2005 22:45
Congratulations to D_B, he basically got the issue.
Not only foundation movement, but also warpage of the door or frame due to excessive moisture or dryness.
The most effective means of doing this involves not a blade, but a series of latches moving up and down as opposed to in and out.
The latches and matching strike plate can be designed so that when the bolt is activated, each of the latches help to pull the door into position.
While it may bind due to warpage, or shifting foundations only severe misalignment will prevent the door from a positive locking condition.
Pip gets some points for creative analysis. It would indeed weaken the door. To what degree though, I am not sure.
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by digital_blue » 21 May 2005 23:44
I am so smart, I am so smart. S.M.R.T. ... I mean S.M.A.R.T.
db
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by raimundo » 22 May 2005 9:20
First I want to say that I thought of that long ago, but I never made one, or told anyone about it, so whoever is manufactureing it didn't actually get it from me, and second, how deep is the throw.? yes pip, it would involve weakening the door, unless it is applied to the back of the door like a rim lock, most types of deadbolt mortised through the edge of the door do weaken the door. while a rimlock only has a cylinder drilling, not the bolt drilling. And of course the malfunction where the door is not able to open when the authorized want it to is the drawback, as on every lock.
Just to get it out there before someone psychically picks my brain and produces it, here is another idea I have had. Your an 80 year old ninety five pound woman who has just answered the door with the chain on, and its a 200pound gorilla out there who will easily snap the chain, what do you want. attached to the inside of the door, is a long handle, hinged to the door near the bottom, and hinged to it is another stick that can be kicked loose to drag on the floor, with a rubber foot that will grip the floor, the little old lady can grab this handle, and as she pulls on it, the second stick hits the floor and she is now back a foot or two from the door and closing the door with the advantage of leverage, if he dosent get his fingers out of the gap its really gonna hurt.  how do ya like that one.
picture it in side elevation as the letter K with the upright as the door, and the top of the k is the lever, while the bottom is the fulcrum with the foot that hits the floor and is levered against. 
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by pip » 22 May 2005 9:35
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watching the bob villa video on this thing
i still think you would need
a little extra " oomph "
to turn this 28" blade / bolt
but i only use wiper blade inserts
for tension wrenchs
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by theevilmunchkin » 22 May 2005 13:07
Hmm I wonder how thick that 28" blade is? and does it bend easily.
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by Mad Mick » 22 May 2005 17:36
pip wrote:. how much tension would you need ?
The same as any other lock. Even after the lock is picked, the effort required to retract the locking mechanism should be able to be easily applied, as the customer would expect minimal effort using only the key.
 If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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by Romstar » 23 May 2005 2:16
theevilmunchkin wrote:Hmm I wonder how thick that 28" blade is? and does it bend easily.
It would appear, after examining the available information on their web site that the blade is aproximately 1/8 inch thich, and under 1 inch deep. Possibly 1/2 inch door frame contact.
I don't know how easily it would bend in use, but a strip of steel that long and thin would bend easily outside of any external support.
Obviously, the jam strike and the jam mortise would support the blade, but to what degree I am uncertain.
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by 7mazrik » 23 May 2005 12:19
Hi everybody, ill give you all my 2 cents worth.
Generally not much tension is needed, the lock might be stuck so use a little WD40. I dont think tension picing the lock is the problem, probobly the bolt is stuck a little. I took some old keys from a variety of locks, ground them down and after the lock is picked past the shear line the sometimes help move things with pout bending my tools out of shape.
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by n2oah » 24 May 2005 17:10
pip wrote:. is anyone familiar with this ? how much tension would you need ? maybe a 28" tension wrench http://www.maclock.com/#
It doesn't look any more secure than a regular deadbolt. It's just to prevent people from breaking the door down. 
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