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The lock cracker

Tool recommendations, information on your favorite automatic and/or mechanical lockpicking devices for those with less skills, or looking to make their own.

Postby toomush2drink » 21 May 2005 15:30

Sks supply these with the lock case and i thinki ts the yale ones that can get a bs rating with all this kit. If you look at a lot of euro cylinder mortice lock cases they have the hole either side of the euro hole to allow for bolt through security roses. My local council fits them and they are a good defense even against drilling as only the keyway itself is visible. Ok like most things they are not unbeatable but they make it more time consuming to get past for the average thief.
toomush2drink
 
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Location: UK london

Postby BUNGYSTRAP » 24 May 2005 8:28

The problems with snapping euro cylinders is being dealt with. There are some with a paperclip type insertion at the midway weak point which maintains the join even after snapping. There are also euros now with aditional week points which ensure most of the lock is left inside with a sacrificial piece in your hand.
IF A POLAR BEAR'S SKIN IS BLACK AND IT'S FUR CLEAR, WHY DOES IT LOOK WHITE?
BUNGYSTRAP
 
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Postby eric343 » 24 May 2005 19:08

There are a few ways to stop this...

The plates are most common, but those too can be bypassed by tapping a screw into the cylinder and pulling.

Mauer makes a profile lock that has two vertical cuts in the body on the "outside" side of the lock. If you break the lock off, only the first centimeter or so comes out. If you tap a screw and pull, you'll have the second centimeter, and the plug of the lock -- but it still won't open, because the lock uses a special long key that actually interfaces with pins in the cylinder on the opposite sides to unlock that one, too!

Keso makes a "flexible" cylinder. You can pull it out a bit, but the metal that connects the two halves of the cylinder is very strong and quite ductile. The lock will "flop around" a bit, but you can't pull it out all the way.

Keso also makes a cylinder out of laminated chrome-nickel plates. They are extremely strong and hard, effectively rendering the whole lock one big anti-drill pin. I believe they are also held together with enough strength to make the pull- or break- attack unfeasible.

Lastly, there's the Keso rear-insertion-plug cylinder. This lock has a hardened steel horizontal pin that runs just below the pin stack on the outside-facing side of the lock in order to keep the lock in place. I don't remember exactly the purpose of the rear-insertion plug -- I'd have to check my notes.
eric343
 
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