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SOUTHORD E100HO -> wanna modify it

Tool recommendations, information on your favorite automatic and/or mechanical lockpicking devices for those with less skills, or looking to make their own.

Postby bc » 16 Jun 2005 9:35

PM just for you, Shrub... :wink:

:arrow:
bc
 
Posts: 18
Joined: 13 Jun 2005 10:20
Location: Paris (France)

Postby Chrispy » 16 Jun 2005 16:15

You sounds just like the girls I knew in highschool after I had a date with 'em. Hmm.

- digital blue


:lol:

Chrispy... Respecte toi toi-même, et les autres te respecterons, my dear...

- bc


Errr.... I hope that's something nice.... :D I wasn't meaning to offend you, it's just the layout of your post was very scattered and made me dizzy. :wink:
Image
Some things may be pick proof, but everything can be bypassed....
Chrispy
 
Posts: 3569
Joined: 24 Mar 2005 15:49
Location: GC, QLD

Postby bc » 17 Jun 2005 4:22

:? Ok, so i give you my fully excuse... (i must stop coffe... :twisted: )

i haven't take any lesson on english language, so i have learn with movies, text, & internet.... auto formation.............. :P


So i am not at all completly operationnal... :D :oops:



I go to try to explain you better :

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


In fact, I think that I vary frequency when I unscrew the inferior (In technical english, i think it's "Low Cabinet") of my gun, but UNDER TENSION. (as when you want to change your cells, for example)


good manipulation is:

1) I unscrew the inferior of my gun (the one who contains cells) until no break (just before the separating of both elements)

2) I press AND HOLD the boutton ON / OFF (but nothing takes place, since the contactors [cell>-----| |<motor] do not touch together yet)

3) Then, I re-screw the inferior slowly and progressively in my superior (Upper Cabinet?), until the contactors really touching together [battery>||<motors].

4) So, the motor starts, but very slowly. Then, slowly and progressively, I go on to re-screwing my inferior... And the motor turns more and more quickly! Because when i re-screw, I push more and more on the contactors (metallic tongues).




It is sure that this method remains unpredictable, and it is sure than an electronic modification (vr+led) would be better definite (more fine), but...................if that's work??? :wink:


------------------------------------------------


And for the info, "nauseating" is badly interpreted in french, more like "vomiting"... :lol: so so sorry....................
bc
 
Posts: 18
Joined: 13 Jun 2005 10:20
Location: Paris (France)

Postby Shrub » 17 Jun 2005 5:07

As i mentioned in the reply to bc's pm, this method could damage the contacts, wear the motor brushes out and could damage the batterys, i would not advise this method of control.
Shrub
Moderator Emeritus
 
Posts: 11576
Joined: 23 May 2005 4:03
Location: uk

Postby bc » 17 Jun 2005 8:11

Ok but it would mean that to change batterys also could damage my gun in the long... :shock:



I will try to find the good resistor value researched... :arrow: in progress........
bc
 
Posts: 18
Joined: 13 Jun 2005 10:20
Location: Paris (France)

Postby Shrub » 18 Jun 2005 4:45

STOP EVERYTHING,


Changing batterys doesnt damage anything, what you are doing is making and breaking contacts that are only supposed to be opend or closed once in a blue moon,



I have run some tests and the correct value is 10k,

The problem is that if you set it to run slower the resistor burns out with the current draw!
DO NOT DO THIS,


If you want to electronically control your speed you will have to make a controller up, this may just meen setting a pot to current change rather than voltage change but i havent time now to mess around with it.


There is an optimum number of 'hits' the gun should make to deem it of use, i think this is 3-4 a second changing this by means of limiting voltage to the motor is not the thing to do as the frequency will change,


The best bit of advice i have to you is to leave things as they were designed as everyone else manages to open locks with the gun just fine as it is, why fix somthing that isnt broken.


If anyone wants a circuit designing to give safe and proper control over the gun i will design one but not immedeiately,


AGAIN, DO NOT FOLLOW THE ADVICE ABOVE ABOUT INSERTING A VARIBLE RESISTOR AS IT WILL BURN OUT.
Shrub
Moderator Emeritus
 
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Location: uk

Postby MrB » 18 Jun 2005 12:42

Shrub wrote:I have run some tests and the correct value is 10k

Really? Let's suppose it has a 6V motor drawing 1A. If we want to reduce the motor voltage to 3V, we need to drop 3V in the resistor. Since R = V / A, we need R = 3V / 1A = 3 ohms. So a good variable resistor would be something like 10 ohms rather than 10 kilohms.

Shrub wrote:The problem is that if you set it to run slower the resistor burns out with the current draw!
DO NOT DO THIS

This will surely happen if you use a miniature carbon pot designed for electronics. If you use a wirewound variable with a rating of 10 W or more, things should be fine. However that thing is going to be too big to fit conveniently on the pick gun.

Like Shrub said, there isn't much point messing around with a working tool. Best to take the gun as it comes and learn how to become skilled in its use.
MrB
 
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Joined: 7 Sep 2004 15:13
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