When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by Geek142 » 20 Jun 2005 2:51
They look good sidpick.
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by Chrispy » 20 Jun 2005 3:04
So does your new sig, Geek. Well done. 
Some things may be pick proof, but everything can be bypassed....
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by Geek142 » 20 Jun 2005 4:55
That DB. I asked him what i should make my new one look like and then he gos ahead and makes a wicked one and sends it to me... my other one was crap so i thought i would use his wicked one.
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by wtf|pickproof? » 20 Jun 2005 5:46
I finally managed to make some pictures of my first bogota set.
The green tube protects the picks and the bags from each other when i carry the picks on me. I even used it as a pick for a 4 pin tubular lock mounted on a HD-frame.
The bumps on the rake are to close to each other but i sucessfully opende a bunch of cheap EVVA euro-cylinders and some of my padlocks with it (I am having problems on the others because of the hard springs in those). Please keep in mind that my picks are designed "upside down" as i live in europe were locks tend to be mounted pins down.
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by Geek142 » 20 Jun 2005 6:18
Not fair these are starting to look good. You might have some competition on your hands anytime soon raimundo
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by raimundo » 20 Jun 2005 9:05
That is the best looking set I have seen that was not made by me. congratulations, (are you still ordering some from me?) Now that you know how, make some more.  you can change the size a bit for the smaller or larger keyways, and you can change the handles a bit too. Try the really quick nervous technique that really makes them work. 
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by Mad Mick » 20 Jun 2005 18:16
Nice work wtf, very nice.
raimundo wrote:Try the really quick nervous technique that really makes them work. 
This is actually truer than it sounds!
I got asked to open an Abus padlock on a doctor's 'emergency toolbox' with the keys locked inside, just after I got the set from Ray. I said it may take a while, then got the Bogota set out. An audience is not what I'm comfortable with, and there were three spectators, so my hands were a little less steady. In goes the rake, 2 or 3 secs later, the lock is open. I had to bite my tongue to keep from smiling... 
 If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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by pun1sher » 20 Jun 2005 19:09
good job, i know how that is, you can never get it open when there's people burning your hands with their eyes. sorta like performing magic.
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by wtf|pickproof? » 21 Jun 2005 13:17
Thanks for the compliments!
But everytime I have a look at the pictures in the HOWTO I am getting jealous. Those picks are terrific! Of course I'm still thinking about ordering some of yours. (IMHO the originals are a must have)
The HOWTO is great too. I made my picks without reading it, and reading it afterwards cleared a lot of for me. I can't afford to invest too much work into lockpicking/pickmaking as there are some exams ahead  but I think I'll craft bogota rakes of different types in summere hollidays.
I like the idea of the springholder for small sets (need to start working on a small set thou). I'm thinking about using gaffa to tape a safty pin to the tube. I'll definitly make some picks with points up as i think the tension of the bristles works better that way (the pick is supported by the hand).
I was thinking about making a rake with two mountains , but i guess you have already tested that. Are there any other types of picks which work well with this kind of handles?
Thanks for the hint regarding the technique. I'll try to keep this in mind.
The hook works well for me if the lock has a lot of high pinnings, but I am having hard times picking locks with low pins , mostly because of the picks are bending.
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by helix » 21 Jun 2005 23:44
nice one, wtf.
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by Geek142 » 22 Jun 2005 3:14
Do you need bristles to make these or could you just use junior hacksaw blades. Or in australia we have these strips of metal i dont know what they are but skold would know what i am talking about because he makes his tension wrenchs out of them. Could you use them?
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by raimundo » 22 Jun 2005 9:16
The Bogota set has the three point rake and the undercuts even on the diamond, (it can be reversed and used to unlock common handcuffs because of the undercut, if you get into that) but they have been made with two points which is also a very valid type, and also four points, with a hi low hi low profile, there have also been sets of hooks, the tensor/handle makes a very compact set and the original bogota makes a powerful set with only two pieces. There is also a two points widely separated design called the sabana, this should have room for two or even three pins to sit on the shaft between the two points, and is useful for the difficult deep middle pins combination, but the power of the bogota set is the versatility of only two pieces in a small package. So if you want to make big sets, go ahead, I have even made three pieces bent and twisted together, bogota rake, diamond, and hook, but the Idea is that you should have less to keep track of. A variation in the handle is the loop that fits around the second finger (bird) This gives a very comfortable ergonomic pick but no tensor. you can make them of any suitable metal, but if its much wider than the sweeper bristle, you may not have a set that is compact and easy to keep in a wallet. (they have even been made from the stainless headband of a type of walkman earphones, this requries an extra straightening the metal step,) Do not put the peaks too close together on the bogota rake, the concept is to have a peak lift the pins then open up the valley to let them jump off into. Its the negative space of the valley that really helps them work. And the peaks get narrower as they raise, so that while they will lift the pins, they get out of the way quickly. 
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by Orange_Crusader » 11 Jul 2005 22:27
I checked over a few people's bogots rakes, trying to find a decent peak to peak lenght. Sadly, raimundo's how to didn't have a ruler in the photos, and I don't have a really accurate means to measure the distance in a lock (since it varies from lock to lock). One pic with a ruler put the distance at about a half inch (1.25cm, about) between peaks, but that seems like a lot, seeing as that would have multiple pins in a valley at a time, not just one.
I'll go with half a wiper insert per pick. Big, I know, but I plan on going with the ergo handle option. Will trim as needed.
Since I don't have one, what's the diameter of the chainsaw file used in the how to? Smallest I have in my needle file set is a 5/16" diameter one that comes to a point. If it needs to be any smaller, it'll be hard to do, but doable all the same. I'll start on a set or 2 of these tomorrow. 
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by wtf|pickproof? » 12 Jul 2005 0:00
Well I think the pictures over there should give you a good impression.
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?t=7006
I'd say 1,5 - 2 pin distances should be fine.
The needlefile will do the job if I ain't wrong. (I'm used to metric measurements)
Don't forget to sand them nicely!
good luck, and please post some picks of the results.
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by Orange_Crusader » 13 Jul 2005 13:15
Will do, just need some higher grit sandpaper, best right now is only 200.
Looking around, at a few spacing pages (like http://www.dlaco.com/spacing/tips.htm ), I found the more or less ideal spacing, so that one pin is at the tip, one in the valley, to be 3.9mm (or just plain 4mm), or about 0.156". I'll be making my picks according to this, and with 3 peaks, it should be able to handle 5 pins at a time. Perfect.
Using the needle file set for this, and a vice. It's very hard to keep the wiper insert in place, especially if I need to keep it parallel to the vice, because the insert is fairly thin (in width), and a pain to line up. Should be able to post a scan or pics late today or tomorrow. They won't have as nice a finish on them, but I'll take some fine steel wool to them and see what I can do. 
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