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by sawtenor » 18 Jul 2005 13:20
I want to make a practice board but I have no clue how I could fix a deadbolt. Ya know, the right size I need to drill for the hole, and how I'm doing to make the lock stick... I tried searching but i didn't get the information I wanted. So help would be appreciated a lot.
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by Varjeal » 18 Jul 2005 14:00
Post what type of lock you want to mount and we'll be able to help you out.
*insert witty comment here*
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by oaksy » 18 Jul 2005 14:27
Im making one i will post some pics
Regards
Oaksy 
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by n2oah » 18 Jul 2005 15:44
There are some nice drilling jigs with holesaws and all available at the Home Depot (if you live in the US). You can just take a lock there and ask how to mount it, they should help you out and show you what you need for the installation.
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by fixer » 18 Jul 2005 17:29
If you in the US and this is a normal lockset, you typically have to drill the following :-
measure back from the edge of the door 2 3/8 inch
repeat on the other side of the door
at the same level put a mark in the middle of the edge of the door which is 7/8 inch on common doors
using a 2 1/8 inch hole saw, drill through the door till the pilot bit just comes through the other side
now drill through the door in the other direction using the small hole as the pilot hole
now using either a hole saw or a paddle bit drill a 1 inch hole from the edge of the door into the big hole you just drilled
put the bolt in the door and mark around the plate
using a sharp chisel, remove enough wood from inside the marks so that the face of the plate is flush with the door edge.
make sure the bolt is the right way up and then install the two halves of the deadbolt
the previous step causes most people problems if you get the tailpiece in the wrong place. If the lock doesn't work correctly, you may need to remove the lock and turn the tailpiece.
More information on the specifics of the lock may result in these instructions changing. Schlage deadbolts sometimes need a smaller hole to be drilled through the door.
Hope this helps.
Fixer - Recovering sys-admin
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Remember Luke, the force is like duct tape. There is a dark side and a light side and it binds the universe together.
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by oaksy » 19 Jul 2005 7:15
Here is the picture of my practice board if you would like to know the size of it,please post and i will size it up for you...
Hope that helped you...
Regards
Oaksy 
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by Chrispy » 19 Jul 2005 16:38
Nice oaksy 
Some things may be pick proof, but everything can be bypassed....
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by oaksy » 20 Jul 2005 2:36
Thanks mate.... 
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by sawtenor » 20 Jul 2005 5:45
Thanks a lot for your replies guys!
What I have right now is a Weiser and an HSC lock. Right now, I don't have hole saws, but I will certainly buy some later.
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by fixer » 20 Jul 2005 6:15
You can mark the hole with a pen/scribe and then drill small holes through the board. Once you have gone all the way round, use a chisel to cut out the block in the center. Just smooth off the rough edges with your chisel and you should be OK unless you are fitting a Schlage knob that needs almost all of the 2 1/8 hole.
Hole saw kits for door locks are quite cheap in the home improvement stores. They only work on wood, but that shouldn't be a problem for most people. I have to buy the bi-metal blades for cutting metal doors and they can be $10 to $15 each depending on the quality. 
Fixer - Recovering sys-admin
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Remember Luke, the force is like duct tape. There is a dark side and a light side and it binds the universe together.
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by Chrispy » 20 Jul 2005 18:46
fixer wrote:You can mark the hole with a pen/scribe and then drill small holes through the board. Once you have gone all the way round, use a chisel to cut out the block in the center. Just smooth off the rough edges with your chisel and you should be OK.....
That's what I do.... as I have no holesaws. 
Some things may be pick proof, but everything can be bypassed....
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by n2oah » 20 Jul 2005 21:02
fixer wrote: I have to buy the bi-metal blades for cutting metal doors and they can be $10 to $15 each depending on the quality. 
I had to buy some extra-long bi-metal sawzall blades--$27 for two! 
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by fixer » 20 Jul 2005 21:44
If you are doing more than one or two door preps, a small selection of hole saws is a wonderful addition to your tools. They save so much time.
I had a customer tell me at 3:45pm that the five deadbolts they needed to be installed had to be finished by 5pm
I walked out the building at 5:10pm check in hand having done the job. That is 1 hr 25 minutes to walk to my truck to pick up the tools, measure, drill and prep 5 doors, install and test the deadbolts, write up the paperwork and collect the check. Not forgetting the clean up of the sawdust and wood chips. For those challenged in math, this averages about 12 min per lock.
Perhaps this should be a new event in the locksports arena. Race head-2-head installing a lockset or deadbolt on a door. Winner goes through to the next round.
Fixer - Recovering sys-admin
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by nextlevel » 28 Jul 2005 12:50
oaksy;
nice board. maybe a noob dumb question but with a test/dummy board u do not need the actual bolt installed to do test picks??? I am looking at trying to make a test board this weekend for when my picks arive.
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by Chrispy » 28 Jul 2005 16:00
nextlevel wrote:oaksy; nice board. maybe a noob dumb question but with a test/dummy board u do not need the actual bolt installed to do test picks??? I am looking at trying to make a test board this weekend for when my picks arive.
There is no need for bolts or strikes to be included on the practice board. It's simply about getting the plug to turn. 
Some things may be pick proof, but everything can be bypassed....
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