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by stonee » 7 Aug 2005 19:38
Hello,
Let me start of by saying that I do not know the first thing about picking a lock. I have read an article on howstuffworks.com about how locks work, but that's about it.
I have been looking around your site, and I've found that most of your articles are related to picking locks, not necessarily how to protect your stuff.
However, I feel that you guys are sure to know have an answer to a question that I have.
I recently purchased a motorcycle, and I am moving to San Francisco next week. I want to be able keep my motorcycle from being stolen.
I am planning on providing two layers of security. One is using a Xena Disk Lock. The other is simply some kind of chain and a lock to place on an immovable object.
What kind of lock should I buy to chain the bike?
I have recently found out that master locks can be opened easily using a master lock.
Moreover, what kind of cable should I buy?
http://www.ridegear.com/store/category/Security.html
Here are some of my options.
Thanks,
stonee
{db edited: corrected link tag}
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by SFGOON » 7 Aug 2005 19:47
A lot of cyclists (pedal, not motor,) use a very thick steel U lock with an abus lock on it. This would likely be excellent security fro your bike as well.
"Reverse the obvious and the truth will present itself." - Carl Jung
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by n2oah » 7 Aug 2005 19:50
I'd use a heavy U-Lock with a Medeco system series padlock or an Abloy padlock. If you don't want to pay for a medeco or abloy padlock, you can always choose a cheaper padlock like a Master Pro Series. Remeber: A lock is only as secure as the chain that holds it.
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by vector40 » 7 Aug 2005 20:33
Lotta good, heavy padlocks out there; best person to chat up is your local locksmith.
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by Chrispy » 7 Aug 2005 20:47
Not to scare you or anything, but even with a really thick, strong chain and a top-of-the-line padlock, the would-be thief can simply take the whole package and work on the chain/padlock in the safety of their workshop,etc. Let me explain....
A year or so ago, we had some motorcycle thieves targeting all the best bikes on the coast. Bikes would be stolen even with chains going through the wheels and locked with very expensive locks. How did these thieves do it? By simply putting the bikes onto the backs of a tow truck with the help of a mounted hoist (mounted to the back of the truck) and driving away. The thieves took the bikes back to a warehouse in the industrial district and cut the chains off. They were only caught when one of the bikes that they had stolen, repainted, and resold, was involved in an accident and discovered by police to be one of the stolen bikes. Investigations led to the warehouse being under surveillance and the thieves were caught red-handed one night coming back with a $40,000 sports bike.
Moral of the story? Some things may be pickproof, but.......
Some things may be pick proof, but everything can be bypassed....
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by n2oah » 7 Aug 2005 21:37
So if you locked it to a telephone post...?
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by Chrispy » 7 Aug 2005 21:45
If it's a telephone post in the middle of the city, you're safe. If it's a telephone pole in a less densely populated area, they'll prob just cut it off anyway. Apparently, one of the bikes that got stolen was chained to a metal handrail on the edge of the footpath. 
Some things may be pick proof, but everything can be bypassed....
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by n2oah » 7 Aug 2005 21:50
Wow, the theives in Austrailia are smart. Thank god we don't have people like that in the US (idiots) or we'd all be dead 
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by cracksman » 7 Aug 2005 22:19
I hate to use this metaphor, but it is apropo; "You don't have to outrun the bear, just the other campers"  I actually called 911 (999 UK emergency I think) when my car was broken into (Acura, Integra). In my city, calling the police for a car theft is pretty ordinary, in other words, call your insurance company, if it doesn't show up in 30 days claim it. We simply don't have the manpower to go after a stolen car, in fact I think it just annoys the dispatchers when we call 911 on something like that.
My point is this, make your bike less of a target then the other ones, and make sure you have insurance. Generally, nobody steals Harleys around here, but crotch rockets are a dime a dozen. Why? The chop shops know who they can mess with and who they can't, in other areas, the exact opposite is true, the Harleys, Indians, etc. are the targets.
Auto-bike theft is a billion dollar business, if you want to keep your bike safe, follow the advice given about locks, but in the end, leave nothing of personal value with the bike. In the end, a lock simply says to people that the owner wants to limit access, those that follow the law will not violate the intent, those who intend violate the law will attempt to bypass the lock...make yours harder to bypass then everyone elses, yours is less likely to be stolen.
-hope this helps 

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by stonee » 7 Aug 2005 22:39
Thanks for all of the tips!
I will be seeing a locksmith in my area tomorrow. I'll be asking him about the brands of padlocks (Medeco, Abloy, Abus) you guys recommended.
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by fixer » 8 Aug 2005 6:44
You want to make sure you buy the Hardened chain. This material is expensive, but it is resistant to hacksaws and even gives angle grinders a tough time.
You should also buy a shrouded padlock. This is where the body of the lock comes up and covers most of the shackle. Don't be fooled by the 'high security' ACE padlocks (round key) they are not secure. Chubb, Medeco, Multilock, Abus and other such lock companies make some very good padlocks. Again, these locks are not cheap, but how much is the bike worth? The lock and chain can also be re-used on many bikes in the future.
I believe there are also bike alarms available and you could invest in a lojak device if the bike is worth enough and you are in a high risk area.
Bike security is like anything else though. Make your property unattractive to the thieves. Park it in public areas with good lighting. Have two or more locking devices on it so they have to be working on it too long.
Fixer - Recovering sys-admin
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Remember Luke, the force is like duct tape. There is a dark side and a light side and it binds the universe together.
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by n2oah » 8 Aug 2005 10:53
I think you scared him, cracksman 
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by NKT » 8 Aug 2005 11:50
You won't stop the criminal gang, but you will perhaps slow them down a bit. You will, however, stop the casual thief.
The locks that secure to the front brake disc are very effective, since forcing them breaks the front of the disc, and it cannot be driven. They are hard to remove too, since they are a very tight fit, they are small, and they are very close shackle.
As regards locking to things, make sure the object is really immobile, and preferably has power running through it. A streetlamp isn't going to get chopped down, but a railing rung is easily bolt-cropped.
A motion sensitive alarm is useful.
In Cambridge (I've posted this elsewhere) the bicycle theft gangs go along a street and unlock all the bikes, regardless of worth or lock, then throw them in a Transit van, and leave. All they leave behind are bits of bent or cut metal, or discarded locks. Similar things happen with motorbikes, I assume, though the security devices tend to be more expensive and better on motorbikes. Bit heavier, too.
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by pretender » 9 Aug 2005 2:17
Rule of thumb I have retained from my less than ethical experiences is that if it takes longer than 15 minutes to defeat, you'll have eliminated a huge amount of potential would-be liberators.
Mostly it depends on not parking your machine where a crook would have the opportunity to work on your security measures. Think like them and be a little bit vigilant, and you should be okay.
Oh...and don't get complacent about locking it up, even if it takes you 5 minutes flat just to get it all unchained and deactivate the death rays. 
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