Core, retainer plate and hex

[Wrenchman]

hi there, this is my first question.

I have been lockpicking for some months now, learning it on the internet, and I am getting ok good at it!

now the questions slowly start to pop up, one after another!

I would like to know, how do I get the core out, from a "brasil"(door) or a "papaiz"(padlock)

I have read, here, that the techniques are different, on different locks, but... I have had a look at this pdf

http://keying.masterlock.com/pdf/0291-0 ... 001-02.pdf

here is the INSTRUCTIONS

1. Unlock padlock. Withdraw key.
Turn shackle away from opening.
2. Insert hex wrench into shackle
opening to engage socket screw.
3. Lift out retainer plate. Tip padlock
to slide cylinder out.

now that is all well and good, but it does not look like that a hex fits in downthere, but there is definitely something removable, I just can´t get it out.

maybe a special hex, that has a parabolic form, is that a good suggestion?

and as for the "brasil"(door) with dobble individual core, (one cylinder on each side of the door)
there is absolutely nothing but the keyway!

[Shrub]

It just maybe that there is a protective cap over the hex screw, try and get a good look with a torch and if there is somthing there but with no hex etc in it try and see if you can move it with a screwdriver, it may just be a rubber,plastic plug to stop water rusting the scerw

[Varjeal]

Papaiz padlocks are not generally considered a "rekeyable" padlock, but I've done it, and it's not fun.

First of all, the core isn't designed to be easily removed...once they're assembled they're considered "maintenance free" which means when it's broken, don't fix it, throw it away and buy a new one.

Anyways, what you need to do to rekey these locks goes something like this:

1. Clamp the padlock in a sturdy vise with the pins on "top".
2. Take a fine cut flat file, and run it across the side of the padlock that is now facing up, particularly across the 1/2 to 2/3 closest to the opening of the keyway.
3. What you should eventually see after a few smooth swipes are 5 "dots".
4. Take a drill (or better yet, drill press) and chuck up a 1/8" bit.
5. To a depth of approx. 1/8" or 3-4mm. drill the capping pin out. (stop when you touch the spring.)
6. Repeat until all are done.
7. Remove all springs and pins.
8. Insert new key.
9. Drop in correct size bottom pin.
10. Test key.
11. Drop in top/driver pin.
12. Test key.
13. Insert spring.
14. Hold finger over chamber as key is tested.
15. Repeat Steps 9-14 until all chambers are filled and working properly.
16. Using either the correct diameter of brass rod or the correct cap pins, lightly tap one in making sure to leave 2mm protruding.
17. Test key.
18. Repeat steps 16 and 17 until all are complete.
19. Test key.
20. Tap the plug caps in another 1mm.
21. Test key.
22. With 1mm left protruding, take a heavier flat file and make the edge of the padlock smooth, filing in one direction only.
23. Lighten the stroke and use a finer file, in a direction perpendicular to the previous stroke, lightly file the brass until the marks disappear.
24. Test key.

Hope that helps.

[Shrub]

You have to much time on your hands Varjeal

I guess its not a rubber/plastic cap then afterall

Can you buy them keyed alike?

[Varjeal]

Yup and yup.

[Shrub]

[Wrenchman]

I wish I knew how to put pictures, then I would show you some ugly padlock repining work.

Anyway nr 16. I do not have the material described, and I have really no idea how to get to it, as I´m not a locksmith ..........yet that is

And nr. 23. Are you saying that you can actually make the marks disappear, like as if nobody is going to be able to tell, disappear?

16. Using either the correct diameter of brass rod or the correct cap pins, lightly tap one in making sure to leave 2mm protruding.

23. Lighten the stroke and use a finer file, in a direction perpendicular to the previous stroke, lightly file the brass until the marks disappear.