My home made barrel key collection (& how to)

[NKT]

Looking on ebay, it is kind of odd that there are over 100 locks and padlocks with no key for sale in the USA, but the UK appears to have only a couple.

I wonder if this thread has caused prices to go up?

[Lauren]

It's strange....I also have notice that there seem more UK padlocks being sold or advertised on Ebay state side that what Ebay UK has available. Maybe it's filters from sellers. The irony is that Europe was the epicenter for handmade locks and keys.

[Lauren]

I recently purchased this Miller padlock on Ebay (winning bid $9.99) without a key in the locked position. I just happened to have one key remaining that I purchased from that foundry in Indiana. I used a cut off end of a drill bit to guarantee better accuracy in centering the barrel hole in the key. The bit was the same diameter of the barrel. The bit was then removed and replaced with the cutting bit. The accuracy was pretty good, but the vertical align still seems to be an issue when drilling these bronze cast keys. I still think these blanks are kind of crude, but the material strength is amazing. Overall, the finished product is not bad. You can still see the sand casting marks. The padlock works great and seems to be in new-like condition.

[warpig22]

I am impressed with your work! I was wondering if you might sell one of your key's? I especially love your concept key's. If you are interested please reply. I have the post pg and date, hopefully you can give me a price based off of the work you have done. Pages 2 post 10/10 @ 3:46, 10/27/10 @ 4:18 and the one I want first is page 7 post 3/18/12 @ 6:14. If not thank you anyways, your work is awesome and your concept is even better!

[Lauren]

The one from 3/18 post, I don't own anymore. I gave it to my son. Double bit keys are the most timely to make. It would run you about $65.00 for me to make a similar key from cold rolled steel, no rust protection.

[Onz]

Lauren, Love this entire thread about warded keys! Really makes me want to learn how to make my own. I'm no handy man with that type of stuff. Keep it up!

[Lauren]

And the other site.....http://keypicking.com/viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8498

[torontosafecracker]

Very Nice Work, Do you take requests?

[Lauren]

Requests...yes, but I am not cheap.

[Lauren]

I finally got around to making a working key for my EXCELSIOR 6 LEVER pancake padlock. I wanted the key to be as original looking as possible. I purchased an original CORBIN factory cut key that was once used for a similar lock and used the key to make a copy. I also used my impression tool to decode the lock and to make bit cuts on the key. I cut the key blank on my drill press. The cuts are nice and have sharp inside 90 degree angles. The key was made to a thickness of .050 inch from spring steel plate. This key is really strong. I have never seen a better homemade copy than this one.

[teamstarlet]

I've been following this thread for a while now... I can only echo what people have already said: Amazing work!

Thanks for the inspiration

[Lauren]

On April 1st, 2011, I posted this WB switch padlock made in Marion, Ohio. I made a rather large stainless steel key (yes, stainless steel), measuring just over 2.5 inches tall. I was never truly happy with it. The key head was too thick, the bow lacked definition and the barrel was poorly finished (by my standards). I recently reworked this key and gave it a round head by super gluing a bushing on to the bow and using it as a central axis point by locking a corresponding post in my cross vise. This technique now allows me to really do some clever things. I burned the busing off over an open flame on my kitchen stove. I also super glued a corresponding drill bit in the barrel of the key to hold the key in the cross vise. This allowed me to grind the bow thinner on both sides using an arbor and grinding disk on my drill press. I had to repeatedly cool the key with a damp cloth so the heat would not loosen the super glue. I really like the torpedo shape that I was able to make on the barrel. This key is truly one of a kind and will last many lifetimes.

[GWiens2001]

Fantastic update to the key, Lauren.

What method do you use to cut the angled keyway? I have been using a dremel for the rough cuts, and filing the rest of the way.

Gordon

[Lauren]

It's all done on my drill press. For most keys, I hold the key horizontally up to a small Dremel cut off wheel. I eyeball the geometry, making many checks against the keyhole. There's no need for templates like you used in your Keypicking post. I use the bow as a reference, maintaining a vertical line.

[Lauren]

My latest Ebay purchase was an EAGLE pancake padlock marked, "FAVORITE". My apology to the other bidder who tried to flank me with $26.00 in the last 3 seconds of the listing. You weren't even close to my maximum bid .



This padlock was obtain in the locked position and without a key. I was very impressed with the overall condition of this lock. The body has virtually no dents or scrapes, and it would almost appear that the lock saw very little use. I immediately felt spring back on the hasp, which is the first indicator that the lock was not broken. Even the key hole was in great shape and well defined. Also, I was quick to noticed the well defined embossing, no wear around the letters.

The lever tumblers tell a different story. Strangely, some of the levers in the stack appear much thinner in the middle, almost knife-like, whereas some of the outer ones are much thicker and have more of a flush surface. There would be only two reasons for this varying degree of tumbler thicknesses. One, EAGLE used different thickness of tumblers in the stack. Second, some of the levers wore down giving the illusion of a thinner lever(s). Truly, it is quite common for interior levers to become worn that reside higher in the stack as seen when the lock is open.

I noticed that there was a large gap underneath the lever stack; enough room for a seventh tumbler. This implied that this lock was going to be rather easy to pick or decode, because the tolerance in the stack were not that great.



I tried tension on the hasp by using rope in order to pick the lock open. Only one lever out of six had set. I immediately knew that the lock was not going to open under this technique. I then decided to decode the lock open with the aid of my needle tools. The process began by using an L-wire to measure the gates of each lever tumbler (a process well discussed in this thread). I was able to open the lock using the first set of decoding data. The process took only 20 minutes. This was the easiest lock that I have ever decoded of this type in the shortest amount of time. Sometimes it takes hours. Obviously, the poor tolerances between lever tumblers was a huge advantage.

This is the first EAGLE pancake lock in my collection. Comparing this lock to a MILLER "CHAMPION" model, the EAGLE is .035 inch smaller in body diameter, .030 inch thinner in hasp thickness, .050 inch thinner in body thickness, and has a .355 inch wide keyhole compared to a .340 inch width. Anyone interested in obtaining one of these EAGLE locks for their collection should not be in too big of a hurry. Overall, I not impressed with the tolerances of the lever stack. The lock opens nicely with my decoding tool, but the stack will not reset unless the hasp is pushed down really hard, even after applying some silicone lubercant. A soft close will not lock the lock. This may explain why the lock is in such great condition. The original owner may have perceived the lock as defective and just stored it away. Anyway, I would have to say that this padlock is a cheaper quality in terms of mechanics than the MILLER models. Usually, EAGLE made better locks than the originals. So, this lock is somewhat of a disappointment. Sometime in the near future, I will make a working key.